Ricotta and spinach ravioli epitomises the classic European approach to food combinations, where flavours and textures are complemented and extended rather than contrasted and focused. In this case, the creamy, lightly tangy ricotta is furthered by the mild but definitive spinach taste. The tender dough enclosing the filling gives the combination more assertiveness. Variations on this dish include serving it with roasted pine nuts or nutty burnt butter and sage. These are consistent with the flavour-extending, harmonising concept. There are two ways to pair a wine with this dish. The first is to provide contrast, as in the case of the Gaja sauvignon blanc; the other is to play the same game by enhancing the rounded texture and flavours. Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, Grant Burge 'Zerk' 2004, Barossa Valley, South Australia This richly flavoured blend comes from the warm, sunny Barossa Valley. The region produces white wines that are ripe, rich and unctuous with soft and pleasing acidity. This is a blend of a local speciality, semillon, and honey-like ripe sauvignon blanc. The wine offers similar richness and roundness as the ravioli combination. The acidity is mild and zippy enough to tingle the palate. Serve the ravioli warm and the wine cool to avoid shocking the mouth. Available for $248 from Kedington Wines (tel: 2898 9323) Sauvignon Blanc, Gaja 'Rossj-Bass' 2003, Piemonte, Italy This is a lovely contrast to the rounded, flat notes of the ravioli. It's less pungently aromatic than New Zealand-style sauvignon blancs, but has ample palate richness similar to Bordeaux sauvignon blends. The wine is zingy with exotic fruit aromas. It's unoaked. The palate is rich and fresh for a perfect match to the ricotta and spinach. The overall freshness and brightness of the wine add a lively combination to the ravioli. We all know Angelo Gaja makes great Nebbiolo reds, but this excellent, stylish sauvignon is also a must. Try the ravioli with saffron oil and this Gaja for another twist. Available from Remy for $498 (tel: 2523 5904) Grenache Rose, Turkey Flat 2004, Barossa Valley, South Australia Grenache is one of the most versatile grapes. It blends well in Chateauneuf and makes a good-to-outstanding staple red in most of Spain. It was an indispensable ingredient for Australian fortified wine in the 1970s. This rose is juicy, fruity and plump. It is, of course, oakless. The rose and ravioli combination shows how their contrasting flavours can still blend well if the intensities are comparable. Serve the ravioli with whole roasted garlic to enhance the richness and roundness. Also try this wine with steamed fish with dried mandarin peel. Available for $168 from Watson's (tel: 2147 3641) simon@iwinecentre.com
