COME TO MAMAK

IT'S 3AM IN Taman Tun Dr Ismail, an upscale suburb about 8km south of the Malaysian capital. At this hour, a year or two ago, a passer-by would only see the occasional drunk staggering home under the dim street lights. Now hundreds of people crowd new-style lit restaurants that have sprung up in Kuala Lumpur and across the country.

They're part of what's been dubbed the mamak revolution, a dining phenomenon that is sweeping Malaysia, giving American cafes and restaurant chains such as TGI Friday a run for their money. What's more, the upstart is a homegrown enterprise that's been around for about 200 years. Move over, Starbucks.

The roadside eateries Malaysians fondly call mamak stalls after the sarong-clad, curry-stained Indian-Muslims who operate them have undergone a radical makeover. In a few short years, the humble shacks have evolved into a modern, multibillion-dollar segment of the catering industry.

Many offer alfresco dining. Tables spill out on to pavements where crowds sip teh tarik, the local sweet milk tea, and eat nasi kandar - a combination of various curries and rice - the signature fare of mamak restaurants.

'The humble roadside stalls have grown into giant enterprises,' says 56-year-old lawyer Eric Yap, taking a sip of teh tarik.

'It's the mamak revolution,' says Yap, whose firm represents one of the largest mamak chains. 'They have everything American fast-food giants offer - great service, a clean environment and pleasing ambience. The customers are attracted by the bright lights, 24-hour opening, televisions, and excellent service.'