It could be said that Yang Guifei, one of the best-known imperial concubines in Chinese history, started a craze more than a millennium ago when she begged her lover to get some lychees from 'down south'. Emperor Xuanzong (685-762) sent a group of his best men on horseback from what was then the capital of the Tang dynasty, Xi'an. It took them three days, but they returned triumphant with baskets of the precious fruit from what was then supposedly the southernmost province of Guangdong.
Sadly, although his lady was heartily satisfied, it proved to be one indulgence too many for the emperor's rebellious factions at court: soon afterwards he was forced to execute his favourite lover.
In the 10 centuries since, Yang Guifei's tragic love
story has inspired legions of devotees from across the mainland to venture to Guangdong in search of the juicy little balls. Today, transport having improved somewhat,
it is an easy day-trip from Hong Kong. In the past two months, thousands of Hong Kong residents have been making the pilgrimage by train, bus and car to the northern outskirts of Guangzhou, where the fruit can be plucked from a tree of their choice for as little as 10 yuan.
Evidence of their enthusiasm was obvious on the day we visited the rural Conghua district, about an hour's drive from downtown Guangzhou. Along the road coming off the Jingzhu expressway there was not a lychee tree in sight with fruit left on its branches.
Dotted along the roadside at 50-metre intervals, however, were stalls lined with baskets brimming with lychees. Our spirits rose again as we pulled up to one run by a Ms Xie, a sprightly middle-aged woman who has spent a lifetime in the sun. 'No, I am afraid you will have to walk for at least 20 minutes, up the hill, to get to the trees,' she said, motioning behind her. 'Why do that when I have these beautiful baskets right here in front of me?'