Taking up most of one side of the Place des Terreaux, directly opposite the fountain, is the Musee des Beaux Arts (admission: Euro6 ($57) for adults; Euro4 children and concessions; 10am-6pm; 10.30am-6pm on Fridays). Occupying the former Abbey of the Ladies of St Pierre, which dates from the 7th century, this courtyard compound has a lush, shady garden at its centre and houses France's best collection of international works of art outside of the Louvre. Yet everything is on a much smaller scale and even the most interested visitor would be hard pushed to spend more than half a day among the sculptures from ancient Greece and Egypt, coins and medallions and paintings from the Middle Ages to the mid-20th century. Set against a surprisingly modern backdrop of concrete-rendered walls are highlights of the museum, including canvases by Rubens, Rembrandt, Delacroix, Monet, Gauguin, Picasso and Dufy, and outstanding collections of art deco and art nouveau furniture.

3 The Old Quarter

South of the Place des Terreaux, the kilometre or so to the Place de Bellecour is full of charming cobbled streets and facades decorated with colourful window boxes, with restaurants, cafes, boutiques and antiques and souvenir shops. Along the inner bank of the Saone, sightseeing boats and cafes offer superb views of the river's westward bend, where a small hill rises, peppered with terracotta roofs. It's here, in the Saint-Georges, Saint-Jean and Saint-Paul areas, that some of Lyon's oldest streets and structures lie, as well as some of Europe's best-preserved examples of Renaissance architecture. Some houses are connected by ancient covered passages called traboules.

4 National Opera House

5 Trompe l'Oeil Tour

A walk around the western part of the old city, opposite the banks of the Saone, is one big optical illusion. Or so it seems. Trompe l'oeil - literally 'trick of the eye' - paintings have long been funded by municipal Lyon. Selected buildings have had their windows sealed and been rendered and primed solely for this purpose. The Cite de Creation, a committee of local artists, constantly maintains 10 or more sites. Most paintings honour local innovators in art, literature and cinema, but some feign architectural facades or depict everyday Lyonnais scenes.

6 Fourviere Basilica

Sitting on top of Fourviere Hill, the Basilica of Fourviere dominates Lyon's skyline, being visible from almost any point in the city centre. During the Franco-Prussian war of 1870-71, the Catholics of Lyon vowed to construct a giant church on Fourviere Hill in honour of the Virgin Mary - if the city was spared. It was, and the church was completed in 1896. Its structure is a mixture of styles and materials, leading to unkind nicknames such as 'the upside-down elephant'. The thick stone walls and stained-glass windows are impressive, and the basilica's adjoining esplanade and viewing tower offer panoramic views.

7 Roman amphitheatres

Fourviere Hill is where the Romans first set up camp. It wasn't until the 1980s that two amphitheatres were discovered, a 10-minute stroll from the basilica. The larger of the two - the oldest in France, dating to about 40BC - is again regularly used as an auditorium for outdoor performances. It's open for viewing until 9pm on non-performance evenings.

8 Lumiere Museum

9 Les Halles de Lyon

Amazing and unusual food and wine can be found across the city. Bakeries stack up some of the flakiest-pastry fruit tarts imaginable, cured sausages and hams hang outside or above countless shop and brasserie counters, and dumplings with fish or pork tripe are traditional snacks. Wine from the nearby Rhone Valley is wide in range and often reasonable in price. Head to Les Halles de Lyon indoor food and wine market (Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, open daily until lunchtime) for the best selection in the city. It isn't the cheapest place to do your shopping, but it's where the chefs of the city's best restaurants go for their meat, fish, cheese, fruit, vegetables and more.

10 Fine dining with a view

Lyon's numerous brasseries rarely disappoint, but if you're hungry for something a little more up market then head to the Michelin-starred Les Trois Domes (Sofitel Lyon Bellecour, 20 Quai Gailleton), located at the top of the hotel. The fine food competes for attention with sweeping views across the Rhone and over the rooftops of the nearby old quarter. Not to be missed is the signature starter, millefuille of avocado and crab with ginger olive oil and rose and lemon coulis. The service manages to promote Lyon's friendliness, for which the city is famous in France.