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Perfect Match

Simon Tam

Mushroom risotto is a hearty dish. There are many different types of mushroom that can be used and each imparts a subtle sweetness and round flavour. Mushrooms are often described as having an earthy taste, but this couldn't be further from the truth. Although they have a mossy, damp, earthy origin, mushrooms have a delicate savoury flavour. The texture of the different varieties of mushrooms varies: some are sometimes soggy, while others are crunchy or chewy. It's good practice to add a splash of red wine to finish the risotto. The red wine binds the risotto and evens out the flavours. The best red wine to pair with mushroom risotto should have plenty of rich fruit with varying degrees of complexity.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Shafer Vineyards Hillside 2000,

Napa Valley

In spite of the merlot-mania in the US, cabernets from the Napa Valley still have a strong hold on drinkers. This Shafer Hillside is a proud classic Napa Valley benchmark. It combines power with finesse and complexity with well-directed fruit. The tannin of this wine is a key feature. It's fine and texturally grainy and, surprisingly, you can really taste the blackcurrant-like grapeiness. It perfectly matches mushroom risotto with shavings of black truffle and a thin grating of matured parmesan.

Available for $1,890 from Ponti Trading (tel: 2328 3218)

Shiraz, Penfolds Grange 1999, South Australia

This famous Australian wine has been pleasing palates for more than 50 years. Talk about Grange inevitably also includes the other super Australian shiraz, Henschke's Hill of Grace. The latter comes from a much cooler area and the resultant wine is elegant and somewhat crisp. Grange, on the other hand, comes from super-ripe shiraz grapes, so the wine is powerful, and the fact that there's little new oak in Grange also sets the two apart. Try adding a little lily bulb to a porcini mushroom risotto to carry the powerful Grange fruit and tannins.

Available for $3,480 from Jebsen (tel: 2923 8777)

Valdiguie, J. Lohr 2003, California

In a wine world too often dominated by a handful of grape varieties, southern France's Valdiguie brings fragrant fruity relief. Valdiguie is a simple but flavourful grape, largely suited to a warm climate. This wine is medium purple in colour with lovely floral aromas and little oak. The palate is fruity and crisp without being too dry. Its pure fresh fruitiness will bring balance to the hearty richness of mushroom risotto with fresh broad beans.

Available for $151 from Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121)

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