WHEN MOST OF us are still asleep, workers at the Kung Wo factory are toiling away to produce fresh bean curd for the market. Bean curd has been made on the premises, in a 1950s building in Shamshuipo, for more than 40 years.
So Shing-fung is a relative newcomer, having worked at Kung Wo for only 10 years. But his family bought the business in 1997, and he now manages the operation. It's a simple process, but it starts at 2am. A large electric mortar is first used to grind the soya beans, before they're mixed with water in a blender, he says. Then a massive metal sieve is used to separate the pulp from the smooth liquid. 'After that, we place the mixture into a hot boiler and, when the mixture is heated, it becomes bean curd.'
So works with one of the most versatile ingredients in the world. A culinary chameleon, the soyabean can be transformed into soya milk or bean curd, also known as tofu, to be eaten plain or prepared in innumerable ways. You can even buy tofu cookies these days.
Little wonder that soyabean has attracted so much attention over the years. In the west, bean curd was initially popular among vegetarians, who saw it as a good source of protein. Now it's being studied for its health benefits.
Bean curd is made by coagulating hot soya milk with thickening agents. Gypsum, otherwise known as calcium sulfate, is typically used by the Chinese, whereas the Japanese opt for nigari, a sea-salt liquid rich in magnesium chloride. The mixture is left to cool, and is later pressed into blocks. And that's all there is to it.
A simple process for a simple product. Although it's bland on its own, when bean curd is mixed with other ingredients it can change texture and absorb other flavours. This makes it ideal for a wide range of dishes, from salads to mock meat for vegetarians, as well as various cooking methods, including frying, simmering and steaming.