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Tibet

The Gyalthang Dzong Hotel, Shangri-la

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Where is it? Shangri-la, in Yunnan province, 50 minutes by air from Kunming or four hours' drive northwest of Lijiang.

Luxurious or basic? Luxurious but not opulent, characterised by cleverly designed rooms with comfortable, Tibetan-style beds and wall hangings. The Gyalthang Dzong is operated by Angsana, part of the Banyan Tree Group, but is owned by a local Tibetan family. Elegant, dark-wood bars and a massage room are among the attractions. The rest of Shangri-la is basic, so the Gyalthang Dzong is a relative oasis of comfort.

Who should visit? Travellers who want to explore Xikham, or Eastern Tibet, as the area used to be known during the pre-Communist period. The Shangri-la area is resplendent with natural beauty. Monks walk the streets in burgundy robes, the sky is blue and it's a terrific place for birdwatchers and stargazers.

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What else is there to do? This is a place for nature lovers. Trek (once you have acclimatised), and explore the hills, lakes and monasteries. Breathe the clean air; think about your karma.

What's on the menu? Tibetan hotpot. The Gyalthang Dzong makes a delicious version using fresh meat broth with Tibetan black pig, chicken, potatoes and beans. The chilli sauce is superfluous because the original flavour is so good.

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Anything else we should know? Try to drive to Shangri-la from Lijiang. Not only will you see the upper Yangtze River valley, it is gentler on your body; at 3,300 metres, Shangri-la is high. Hiring a four-wheel drive should cost about 1,100 yuan a day. Lijiang lies at 2,400 metres, so acclimatise there for two days before heading upwards. Altitude can be a problem for some but the Gyalthang Dzong has oxygen on tap and doctors on call. If you are worried about altitude sickness, consult your doctor before travelling and ask to be prescribed pills called Diamox, which help nullify the effects of high altitude.

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