There are two main types of live lobsters available in Hong Kong: the green-headed tropical rainbow lobster and the orangey-red southern rock lobster, which comes mainly from Australia. However, the Chinese preference for all things red makes the rock lobster more popular. The best wine with ginger and garlic lobster needs plenty of fruit purity for the ginger, and a lean streak to freshen up the combination. Mildly oaked semillon/sauvignon blends and delicately barrel-fermented cool-climate chardonnay will also work to enhance and match the garlic's richness. Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, Grosset 2004, Clare Valley, South Australia When the growing season is right, a blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc from the pair's classic home of Bordeaux can be a match made in heaven. When the blend comes from reliable sunny Australian vineyards, it never disappoints. Sometimes, the combination reaches elegant heights such as this Grosset from South Australia's Clare Valley. The wine is fragrant and gives hints of herbal sauvignon, while the palate is linear with a long persistence. It may also have been lightly oaked for added depth. The purity of the fruit stands proudly alongside the flavourful lobster, while the light body enhances the texture. The food and wine combination is integrated with the synergic natural acidity. Available on special for $228 (regular price $288) from Watson's (tel: 2147 3641) Pouilly-Fume, Ladoucette 2003, Loire, France Textbooks will tell you that the main difference between sancerre and pouilly fume lies in the latter's smokiness and gunflint characteristics said to be absent in the former. The truth is, only in extraordinary vintages from conscientious producers is this difference evident. Sadly, it's not the case for 90 per cent of the central Loire wines. This lively sauvignon blanc is minerally, a rather elusive wine flavour at the best of time. It may take some getting used to since it tastes different to the ordinary New Zealand sauvignon. There's a gooseberry-like sauvignon richness. You'd expect a high natural acidity because of its cool, northerly origin. Given that sweet and sour contrast with each other, the high acidity serves well to further exaggerate the sweetness of the fresh lobster. This Ladoucette is also great with steamed whole scallops on vermicelli noodles. Available for $328 from Remy (tel: 2523 5904) Bava Gavi di Gavi Collezione Quintetto 2004, Piedmont, Italy Bava in Piedmont is better known for reds, but this Gavi is made from the spicy cortese grape. It is oakless. There are plenty of floral notes, some green apples and bean curd-like, minerally flavours. The main food-enhancing features of this wine are the delicate, non-overpowering fragrance and especially its uncomplicated richness. This is also sensational with steamed garoupa. Don't serve too cold or the wine will taste like vinegar. Available for $128 from Valdivia (tel: 2555 7431) simon@iwine centre.com
