HUNAN GARDEN The Forum, Exchange Square. Phone 523-2766.
Living in Hong Kong as I have done for more than 10 years, I get more than my share of visitors - most of them strangers, friends of friends or the children of distant relatives - who call me up as they pass through to other places. I always feel I shouldat least take them out for a meal. Given that this is a Chinese city, I also feel that it should be to a Chinese restaurant.
Since I discovered the Hunan Garden in the Forum at Exchange Square, a couple years ago these little duties have become straightforward and pleasurable.
I know that the staff are not going to let me down with surliness so often encountered in Hong Kong restaurants, that reservations will not be necessary and the pocket-book will not be too squeezed. More importantly, I know exactly what to order: fillets of fish with minced bean sauce, shredded beef cooked with vegetables and rice wine and the chicken broth in bamboo mugs are all unusual and delicious.
Jean Grenier Pok Fu Lam