Among your dozens of climbs, which was the most memorable?
It was in 1993 when I ascended the summit of Mount Everest and nearly lost my life. The summit is at 8,848 metres and afterwards, when I started to descend to base camp, I lagged behind my five peers. I temporarily became blind in my right eye and had other symptoms of oxygen deprivation. I lost contact with my team and the base camp for 28 hours because I did not take my walkie-talkie. It was very serious. I almost fell down a slope and for a while was hanging upside-down on the end of my climbing rope. I can't remember how long and how many ways I tried to get up, but I finally balanced myself. Then, step by step, I walked to one of our bases at 8,600 metres, clinging to the belief that I must get down the mountain alive. The situation improved when I got to the base and found some oxygen tanks. I desperately breathed in the oxygen and regained my sight. But I still lost three toes to frostbite ... I learned from this experience that any slight carelessness on a mountain can cost a life.
How did you get involved?
I was studying at the China University of Geosciences in Wuhan . In 1984, I was selected from more than 200 students to join the national mountaineering team and climb a peak in Qinghai with some Japanese climbers. I stood out from the other applicants because I performed well academically and ethically. I was also in good physical shape because I had been a runner. After that I took up professional mountain climbing.
What do you think of this extreme sport? Isn't it dangerous?
I often say mountaineering is a safe sport if you strictly follow its principles and prepare well. We are happy whether we reach a summit or not - safety is the most important thing. Of course, it has dangerous elements, but its attraction is that it is very challenging and puts you at the edge of death and life. I think human beings instinctively like challenges. Most of the mountains I climb are snow-capped. They are so spectacular and beautiful that I am inspired to climb. When I reach a summit, I feel both mountains and human beings are great. Mountaineering has become an inseparable part of my life, I cannot live without it.
Have you had any disasters?
