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Gemstones to shine in a year of sparkling sales

Good business is expected at the show after a year of healthy growth and increased exports

Taking its cue from current fashion, the jewellery industry sees colourful gemstones and big, bold designs as important trends in a year marked by healthy sales.

'The industry is performing very well, particularly the manufacturing sector in Asia,' said Letitia Chow, director of development, jewellery group at CMP Asia.

CMP Asia is the organiser of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair and Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair, which are being held concurrently at the Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Hong Kong's total exports of precious jewellery rose 26 per cent from January to July this year to $13.24 billion, compared with the same period last year.

Hong Kong's top five markets all performed well, including the United States (up 22 per cent), Britain (14 per cent), Japan (11 per cent), Germany (33 per cent) and France (up 56 per cent).

'The industry is optimistic, and expectations are that business will be good during the September fair,' Ms Chow said.

Coloured gemstones are among the products driving the market this year, especially soft pastels such as tourmaline, kunzite and morganite.

Wilson Lau, editor of trade magazine Jewellery News Asia, said: 'In the US, an increasing number of big jewellery chains are placing high-volume orders for gemstone jewellery. There is more emphasis on both semi-precious and precious stones.'

Fancy-coloured diamonds are catching on in Asia, with a wide variety of colours and colour intensity grades available to suit different budgets. Both smaller pave-set natural fancy coloured diamonds and higher-end items are popular.

Pearls, including the larger dark Tahitian and white South Sea, as well as Chinese freshwater and Akoya pearls, never seem to go out of style.

Multilayered strands are popular in Asia, with wearers preferring a natural look to a perfect strand.

'Pearls are very versatile. There are quite attractive dyed freshwater pearls on the market,' Mr Lau said.

The art deco-inspired black and white palette that has predominated for so many years still remains significant. Designers have begun incorporating glamorous yet inexpensive materials such as onyx or leather, which have added to its appeal.

Besides leather, other non-traditional materials such as silk cords, rubber and stainless steel, are creating interesting new looks.

With gold and platinum prices rising in recent years, more designers are turning to alternative metals such as titanium and steel. Combining titanium with gold, diamonds and coloured gemstones is producing jewellery with greater appeal. The popularity of silver jewellery with gemstones is also growing.

After losing ground in recent years to white gold and platinum, yellow gold is making a comeback.

Industry observers said the influence of fashion on jewellery continues to grow. Ms Chow said: 'Because of the bold designs of fashion, we are seeing bigger, more daring jewellery - but the pieces are lightweight, not heavy.'

Dangling earrings that exude a soft femininity are hot this year, and extend to necklaces that feature multilayered strands and long pendants.

In fashion jewellery, there is almost no limit to the materials that designers can employ. Wood, glass, crystal, shell, leather and various semi-precious stones are favourites.

Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair, which is being staged at the same time, has more than 150 exhibitors.

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