There are two main types of goat's cheese: creamy and runny or crumbly and chalky. The former is better for eating on its own, whereas the latter works well in recipes. The best goat's cheese should have a defined but not overwhelming gamey pungency. It should be rich and flavourful, with a hint of soft acidity on the finish. Goat's milk is also much higher in fat content than cow's milk. So, a good wine with goat's cheese needs richness and cleansing acidity to lift the combination. Cheese made from goat's milk may be coated in soda ash, or in cracked pepper. The coating makes the creamy cheese easier to handle. Pouilly Fume, Baron de L 2000, Loire Valley, France Baron de Ladoucette has been making classic Loire sauvignon for as long as anybody can remember. This Baron de L is top of the line, deluxe sauvignon. It tastes very different from the outwardly fruity, juicy New Zealand style. This pouilly fume is restrained and full of bean curd-like minerality. It has concentrated fruit, but is lean and a little mean. It would add a nice edge to a baked layered filo parcel of goat's cheese and chervil. The wine will heighten the combination and give a zingy lift to the warm and rounded goat's cheese. The chervil adds depth to the combination. Available for $738 from Remy (tel: 2523 5904) Delamotte Blanc de Blanc Champagne 1990, le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Epernay, France There are many important vineyard areas in the wine region of Champagne. The le Mesnil-sur-Oger is famed for its incredibly long lasting blanc-de-blancs style made entirely from chardonnay grapes. Sun-glazed, gentle southwest-facing vineyards and the 'keep it simple' approach make this Delamotte one of the most delicious in the business. It's flavourful without being overpowering. It has fairy floss-like gentle bubbles and mouthwatering acidity to finish. Serve this Delamotte with a spoonful of oozy, runny goat's cheese and watch the wine's creaminess take the cheese's creaminess further. But do skip the texture-confusing crackers. Available for $1,290 from Altaya (tel: 2523 1945) Viognier, Eugene Wine Cellars 2001, Willamette Valley, Oregon, US Viognier and pinot gris are competing to be the next trendy grape to succeed sauvignon blanc. This Eugene Wine Cellars viognier is every sip a worthy successor. It has plenty of white flowers and a peach-like perfume. The palate is lush and gentle. It is un-oaked to show off the pristine exotic fruit. This viognier is mid-weight and its versatility combines well with a whole range of food flavours and texture. Try it with a salad of steamed French beans with roasted garlic and crumbled goat's cheese. Available for $228 from Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121) simon@iwinecentre.com
