Jean Georges - This is the best western fine dining establishment in town, hands down. Executive chef Eric Johnson also opened Jean Georges' Market in Paris. Remember to save room for the desserts as they are out of this world. 4/F, Three on the Bund, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Guangdong Lu, tel 6321 3737
Whampoa Club - Chinese food, specifically Shanghainese, is served in elegant portions, with an emphasis on light flavours and artistic presentation. Chef Jereme Leung is doing something different here, and he's doing it better than anyone else. 5/F, Three on the Bund, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Guangdong Lu, tel 6321 3737
Bao Luo - This old-school Shanghainese establishment serves wholesome Yangzhou fare. Expect a queue during peak hours. It is open till 4am, which makes it a favourite with food industry folks and hungry barflies. 271 Fumin Lu, near Changle Lu, tel 5403 7239
1221 - One of the first Shanghainese restaurants to go upscale, this perennial favourite serves local cuisine - sans bones and all that excess grease - in a clean modern space. The clientele is primarily foreign. 1221 Yan'an Xi Lu, near Panyu Lu, tel 6213 6585
Shintori - This theatre of food is one of the city's most stunning spaces to dine, with a raised open kitchen, a minimalist, steel-grey interior and modern Japanese cuisine with a Taiwanese twist. 802 Julu Lu, near Fumin Lu, tel 5404 5252
Xinjiang Fengwei Restaurant - Delightfully tacky interior, playful waiters and some of the best Xinjiang cuisine you'll find anywhere make for a must-try venue. Try the whole roast lamb, da pan ji, the Xinjiang grape fish and the fantastic, crispy fried eggplant. The Middle East meets the Middle Kingdom. 280 Yishan Lu, near Nandan Lu, tel 6468 9198
Corner of Xinagyang Lu and Changle Lu - This dingy strip of street stalls serves outstanding traditional Shanghai snacks, best eaten for breakfast. Wander through the stalls and point at what looks good. The xiaolongbao and shallow-fried pork buns (shangjian) are exceptional.