Liu Yuan Restaurant 1/F, CRE Building, 303 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai 2510 0483 The fare Nouveau Shanghai cuisine emerged in the early 1990s but it wasn't until Liu Yuan moved from North Point to Wan Chai that the restaurant and the cuisine started to attract a faithful following. The ambience Like most Chinese restaurants, this one is not decked out for candlelit dinners or anything like that. It is bright and stylish and a good place for a meal in town. The cost $100 to $300 per head. Who to bring Friends who continue to stereotype Shanghai cuisine as being 'too greasy and too sweet', and old Shanghai hands to show them how their native cuisine can be transformed and modernised to suit new markets. Turn-ons If you have grown tired of fried hairy crab in bean paste, try the fried green crab with salty eggs. Familiar fare, like the 'home-cooked' dishes, has been given a pleasant twist: the broad beans and squash (seasonal), inspired by the traditional broad beans and Chinese spinach, tastes better than the original. Turn-offs The folk here have not done their homework on their chosen speciality - Jiangsu-Zhejiang cuisine. The regional dialect calls squash 'blooms at night', but the menu here has mixed things up and calls it 'wild flower'. Extra The restaurant has recently opened a branch called Liu Yuan Pavilion for the younger market.