The colours may be muted, but it seems almost anything goes for the spring/summer season. From New York and London to Milan and Paris, empire lines abound, dresses are airy, and bows, ruffles and ruches provide rich detail.
New York
Friday, September 9 I'm early for the first show which, to no surprise, starts nearly an hour late. Designer Tommy Hilfiger celebrates 20 years in the business tonight. The lights dim and a video collage of highlights from his career is beamed across a huge screen on the catwalk. A hundred teenage models take to the catwalk barefoot, showcasing Hilfiger's new look for the season, which resembles a 'greatest hits' of sorts. Hilfiger will always be Hilfiger and after a brief stint doing 'couture looks' a couple of years ago, the self-taught designer shows us what he does best and dresses his models like prep-school students on holiday.
Sunday, September 11 Ashish N Soni's debut show in the United States features Zen-like sounds instead of the high-octane DJ mixes normally associated with fashion shows. To achieve his hip Indian-in-America look, Soni pairs wool waistcoats with black kurta churidars or adds a grey acid-dye effect to a cream cherwani.
The Diane von Furstenberg show is held at her shop/showroom/theatre/home in New York's trendy Meat-packing District. Models with big hair and high Christian Louboutin heels sashay in her signature wrap dresses, which are adorned with prints of coral shells, oversized polka dots, leaves, twigs and sundials. Her collection, inspired by 1960s Rome, includes a myriad of ensembles. Cotton jacquard coats are short and mimosa-print day dresses are long and flowing. A chiffon cocktail bustier dress gets a nod of approval from Paris Hilton and a creamy gown has Ellen Barkin whispering, 'That one is so-o-o mine.'
Monday, September 12 Carolina Herrera stays true to her roots with pretty details such as over-sized bows, billowy sleeves, ruffles and floral embroidery. Look out for her strapless, black, silk gazar-tiered gown - this look has the front row scribbling like mad.