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Meet the region's leading  fashion designers

After graduating from the London College of Fashion in 1983, Biyan Wanaatmadja had a short stint with designer Enrico Coveri in Florence  before returning to his native Indonesia to set up his own label, Biyan.  The 49-year-old designer now owns four clothing labels and is planning to launch a lifestyle collection next year.

Have you always wanted to be  a designer?

I actually  planned to study architecture, but I  realised it wasn't for me,  so I quickly switched  to fashion.   I was always interested in something linked to  my creative side. I've always liked visuals and colours.

How many lines do you have?

There's the  signature line, Biyan, and diffusion line Studio 133 Biyan, which I launched in 1985 after  some department stores approached me to design a   ready-to-wear collection. I started (X)SML in 1999,  a younger line, and last year  came Biyan Bride.

What's the design philosophy?

The signature line is  for a sophisticated woman who knows what she wants and appreciates the finer things in life.  Studio 133 Biyan is  wearable, affordable and consists of  separates that can be mixed and matched. (X)SML  has more of a streetwear approach, again offering mix and match.

How is the philosophy reflected  in the materials and shapes?

The signature line is  about beautiful  clothes and this  translates through the use of a broad spectrum of fine fabrics such as lace, tulle, fine cotton  and silk chiffon, with intricate details like embroidery, beads  and rhinestones. The overall  style is modern classic with a twist. For the other lines, there's  a lot of cotton and linen.

What inspires you?

The source of inspiration   changes, but one thing  that always inspires me are women. I like a woman who's willing to evolve with the times and with her dreams.

What does your present collection look like?

The theme is Poetry. It's about  the perfect woman.   There are lots of empire-line dresses, with  fluid silhouettes and neutral colours. I'm using coins in lace,  beads, stones and crystals embroidered  on the fabric. I want to show that richness can still be very subtle.

How does Indonesia influence your design?

I have been using old handicrafts and techniques, like beading and embroidery, so  my designs reflect  that aspect of Indonesian culture.

Where are your designs available?

The Link has special trunk shows in Hong Kong and  also  carries the signature collection in its shop in Singapore. My lines are also  sold in Malaysia and I'm talking to an agent in Paris.

What are your plans?

I'm planning to launch a home line, tentatively called Biyan Living,  next year. I believe beautiful things should be  shared with others. We'll start with a shop in Jakarta and hopefully add a few more.

What's your motto?

Try to do your best, but go with the flow.



Biyan Wanaatmadja