Shrimp paste is one of those ingredients that - like durian - tastes much better than it smells.
What is it? A paste made from pounded shrimp that are salted, fermented and dried. It's used in some east and Southeast Asian cuisines, including Chinese, Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese.
What are the differences? Chinese shrimp paste tends to be soft; it is pinkish-grey and is usually sold in jars. Southeast Asian shrimp paste, usually labelled belacan (or a similar spelling), is drier, darker, firmer and is often sold in small, paper-wrapped bricks. Both types are extremely pungent but the flavour becomes more subtle when it's cooked.
How to choose: with the Southeast Asian types, sniff the shrimp paste through the packet - it should smell strong but not rotten or unpleasant. You might have to try a few brands before finding the one you like best.
What else? Shrimp paste is frequently cooked before it's incorporated into dishes. It's either fried in a little oil or toasted by cooking in a dry pan or on a square of aluminium foil over a grill or open flame.
In some preparations, such as curries and stews, the shrimp paste isn't obvious because it's blended with so many other flavours. In other dishes, such as morning glory with belacan, it's the star attraction.