The brilliant sparkle of a diamond makes it the ultimate in bling.

The latest trends in diamond jewellery call for pieces that are lighter in weight and incorporate interesting new elements in settings and cuts. Micro settings, for example, in which a large centre stone is surrounded by tiny diamonds, have become increasingly popular.

Round or brilliant-cut diamonds have always been the first choice among diamond buyers, but fancy cuts, including ovals, hearts and marquises, sell well, especially to those buying their second or third piece of diamond jewellery.

There has been a surprising resurgence in demand for cushion cuts - an older style that softens a rectangle or oblong shape by rounding its corners.

Rose cuts, aptly named because the design resembles a rosebud, are making a comeback too.

White gold and platinum still outshine yellow gold as a setting metal for diamonds, while titanium is gaining a rising following because of its lighter, more durable qualities.

In Hong Kong, large diamonds never go out of style, according to jeweller Ronald Abram, managing director of Ronald Abram at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong.

'The stone definitely takes precedence in our jewellery but design and craftsmanship are also very important aspects,' he said.

The typical starting point in size for a centre stone in his custom-made creations is two carats. From there, sizes and prices head into the stratosphere - up to 20 carats or more and costing millions of dollars.

'People who come to us are looking for quality stones. These are the kinds of stones that are passed down from generation to generation. The most important factor in our jewellery is the cut, and then colour and clarity,' Mr Abram said.

Cushion cuts are in demand because of their optical effects. 'Old cuts are very nice when mounted properly. They have a lot of fire and scintillation. They can make very interesting jewellery.'

A new twist that the Ronald Abram company has given to micro settings is proving popular with customers. 'We like to leave a hairline amount of space between the small diamonds and the large centre stone. This helps draw your eye to the centre stone,' he said.

At French brand Van Cleef & Arpels, the emphasis is on a long tradition of delicate jewellery and intricate workmanship. Floral designs are a hallmark of the firm, which celebrates its 100th anniversary next year.

Interest in larger diamonds - three to five carats and up - is a growing trend, according to Benjamin Vuchot, managing director of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia Pacific.

'People understand the beauty of such objects and we are able to come up with interesting designs that make the stone even more special,' he said.

Classic designs prevail at the venerable jewellery house, which also prides itself on inventive takes in contemporary design. Diamond solitaire rings fashioned with curving intertwined ribbons or asymmetrical pendants set with diamonds follow this philosophy.

The company introduced its own unique diamond cut in 2003. The 101-facet cut for round diamonds contains almost double the 58 facets in a standard round diamond cut.

Another luxury brand that sees itself as both classic and in tune with the times is Chopard.

'Our haut joaillerie designs have a character in themselves. They're artistic and long-lasting,' said Roland Buser, managing director of Chopard Hong Kong.

The Swiss-based company often designs its high-end jewellery around large diamond centre stones. But with the smaller stones of its Happy Diamonds and Happy Spirit collections, the opposite is true.

'First we do the design and then we find the stone to fit it,' Mr Buser said.

The collections use circles and moving diamonds encased in crystal as two major motifs.

'For jewellery, we usually use one to three diamonds that slide around inside the crystal. We call them floating diamonds,' Mr Buser said.

With prices starting at around $20,000, Happy Diamonds jewellery designs are based on pure geometric forms, such as straight lines and circles. The Happy Spirit collection relies solely on circles. For a more youthful look, colourful silk cords can be used with pendants in place of 18-carat gold chains.

Mr Buser said both collections make a significant statement about exploring different market segments. 'Today Chopard is more about lifestyle,' he said.

He said the company considered itself a leader, and not merely a market follower.

'We create ideas and produce jewellery ourselves. Our local mission is to educate consumers about our product identity as well as the company's philosophy and lifestyle.'

At Danish brand Georg Jensen, Scandinavian design reigns supreme. The firm has been a well-known name in sterling silver jewellery for more than a century. A year ago, it took the plunge into diamond jewellery and hopes to become a global player in diamond and precious stone jewellery.

Its refined, organic designs are pure and understated.

'Ornamentation is reduced and the shapes speak for themselves,' said Nadja Zerunian, the company's creative and artistic director. 'The diamond accentuates and reflects the beauty of the shape.'

Metal settings feature prominently in the overall design scheme, which often relates to water and other themes in nature.

'Our designs are much softer than pure abstract shapes. I describe it as a natural abstract style. The shapes are very fluid, not rigid,' Ms Zerunian explained.

Georg Jensen's jewellery is designed to appeal to women of all ages, but the company's target is design-oriented, confident women.

When wearing jewellery, Ms Zerunian urged women not to stick to tried and true pieces, but to experiment with different concepts.

'Be original, be adventurous. Try combinations of new and old, and don't be afraid to mix and match jewellery,' she said.

Mr Abram said the inner character of a woman often determined the jewellery that a woman could wear. 'I know a petite woman who can carry a 15-carat diamond because her character is so dynamic. Then there are large stature women who are uptight about a two-carat diamond.'

Louisa Lo, high jewellery manager in Hong Kong for Cartier, suggested that women choose diamond jewellery that matches their personality.

'Each woman has her own unique personality. The key is to try on the jewellery. What looks nice in the magazine doesn't mean it is going to suit you. Take some time and explore,' Ms Lo said.

'Finding the right jewellery is like choosing a friend. A good friend will stay forever and bring you many joys. This is what good jewellery is supposed to do as well.'

MODEL CARA G