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Winnie Yeung

Jumbo Kingdom, Shum Wan Pier Drive,  Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen

Tel: 2553 9111

Open: Mon-Sat, 11am-11.30pm; Sun and public holidays, 7am-11.30pm

Cuisine: Chinese.

Ambience: Famous for being one of the postcard images of Hong Kong, the  junk Jumbo Kingdom  still looks the same on the outside, with kitschy Chinese designs.  But after major renovation, the second floor - renamed  Dragon Court - has become a contemporary Chinese restaurant with white and black decor, with purple lights.

Price: A seafood dinner with dessert was expensive at $750 per person, including a 10 per cent service charge and a bottle of wine.

Pros: The  food is fresh and the waiters are helpful.

Cons:  The pier for taking a free boat ride to Jumbo Kingdom can be tricky to find.

Recommended dishes: The lobster ($384/605g on  the day of review, above) was cooked with stock  and the meat was sweet and juicy.  The crab (about $352/605g, daily market rate) was cooked with

lots of garlic. The meat was tender, but we loved the garlic, and ended up eating it with a spoon.

We also loved the dessert of double-boiled longan, lotus seed, red dates,  hasma, lily bulb and white fungus in coconut ($60) because it wasn't too sweet and it smelled strongly of  coconut.  Sweetened almond cream with whole egg ($50) had a good flavour and wasn't gluey.

What else? The sea clams fried with pepper (about $60/605g,  daily market rate)  had a lip-smacking sauce, although the clams  were small. Stewed Chinese greens with fried flour, yellow fungus and bamboo sheet ($88)  went well with the strongly flavoured seafood dishes. The Domaine Chupin D'Anjou Rose 2003 ($207) was well matched with  the dishes because it wasn't too dry.



Dragon Court