1 Capital delights Clermont-Ferrand is the capital of France's stunning and sparsely populated Auvergne region, and the starting point for a memorable motoring tour offering gourmet delights amid a vista of extinct volcanoes, glacial lakes, gorges, forests, medieval towns and villages that dot the wild Massif Central. Arrive in Clermont-Ferrand by train directly from Paris and pick up your hire car. But before driving off into the nearby Volcanoes Regional Park (one of the largest protected areas in Europe) walk up to the medieval heart of the city and explore the narrow, cobbled streets that huddle around Notre Dame Cathedral. The old quarter was built atop the plug of an ancient volcano, and the cathedral is distinctive, being pitch black, built from volcanic rock quarried nearby in the small town of Volvic (famed for its mineral water). The streets around the old city are lively at night, when locals head for the bars, restaurants and clubs. 2 Wine route The rich and diverse volcanic soils, protection against the west winds offered by the mountains and low precipitation help make the Auvergne one of the oldest wine-growing areas in France, although the vintages are little known outside the region. Gamay grapes produce fruity red wines, pinot noir wines are aged in oak casks, and chardonnay does well in the chalky clay soils. There are three major wine-growing areas, and vineyards can be visited right on Clermont's doorstep. The helpful staff at the tourism office around the corner from the cathedral will provide addresses and maps. 3 Volcanic view The Puy de Dome, a towering volcanic dome 15km from Clermont-Ferrand, dominates the skyline, rising to 1,465 metres. You can drive to the top on a private toll road, and in good weather there are terrific views of the chain of about 80 extinct volcanoes stretching for more than 40km. A long-distance national hiking trail wends its way through the volcanoes, and trekkers can sample part of it by taking a train from Clermont to Volvic for the half-day walk to the Puy de Dome. There's a restaurant and volcanology museum at the summit, but they're latecomers. The Romans were among the first to discover the magnificent panoramic view up here and built a temple dedicated to Mercury more than 2,000 years ago. 4 Rural getaway Take the back roads to the spa town of Le Mont Dore, 50km south of Clermont. France's minor roads are little used but well maintained and offer an intimate study of rural life. Orcival, for example, off the D27 and en route to Le Mont Dore, has a Romanesque church dating from the 12th century. Le Mont Dore lies in a narrow forested valley under the shadow of the highest mountain in Central France, Puy de Sancy. From the peak, at 1,885 metres, it's possible to see the Alps, hundreds of kilometres away. A cable car whisks visitors to the peak. You can walk back to town on well-marked trails that offer spectacular views of hidden valleys, volcanic crags and cliffs. At the end of the walk, take a 100-year-old funicular railway into the heart of town. Le Mont Dore is a rambler's paradise in summer and a ski resort in winter, but you don't have to be a fitness fanatic to enjoy it. The Romans discovered the curative powers of the local mineral water, and there are spa centres here and in the town of La Bourboule down the valley. 5 Cheese board 'How can anyone govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese?' asked General Charles de Gaulle. Some say there are as many as 400 varieties of cheese in France, and the Auvergne is famed for producing some of the best. Saint-Nectaire, a village with a population of fewer than 700 people, is a favourite with gourmets. Saint-Nectaire cheese, a favourite of King Louis XIV, is still made on local farms. Learn the complicated process and taste the cheese at Maison du Saint-Nectaire or at the Bellonte Farm. 6 Dizzy heights A dizzying climb leads up the Peyrol Pass to Puy Mary. In the Cantal area, at almost 1,800 metres, visitors gaze onto the Big Daddy of the region's ancient volcanoes: the remains of what was one of the world's biggest, with a circumference of about 60km. Park here and enjoy a hot chocolate outside the windswept cafe and admire the view. The energetic can walk up a steep trail behind the cafe for about 30 minutes to the pinnacle of Puy Mary. 7 Step back in time The Massif Central has many tiny medieval towns and villages, but few beat Murat, its houses huddled together on the slopes of a basalt hill and surrounded by state forest. It was formerly a fortress town, but Cardinal Richelieu, a scheming 17th-century prime minister, had the redoubt destroyed. It's still possible to see damage to coats of arms in the old quarter inflicted during French Revolution riots. The French resistance shot dead a Gestapo chief here in 1944. In retaliation, German soldiers burned some of the houses and sent 80 townspeople to death camps. At the tourism office, pick up a plan of Old Murat and follow a well-marked trail through the medieval quarter's narrow, twisting streets. 8 Viaduc de Garabit The idea for the Eiffel Tower sprang from the Viaduc de Garabit, completed five years before the tower was unveiled at the World's Fair of 1889. Gustav Eiffel built the Garabit viaduct, and it's not difficult to see the similarities between his creations. The viaduct stands in a more peaceful setting, straddling the River Truyere near the Gorges de la Truyere. It's a masterpiece of engineering, stretching for 560 metres at a height of 123 metres. 9 River ride Head to the town of Langeac, the starting point for a 20km drive along the banks of the River Allier and through its gorges, ending at the small town of Monistrol d'Allier. Pass through tiny villages, some with populations of about 100, with gothic chapels and ruined castles, and always with the river bubbling nearby. Look out especially for the villages of Chanteuges, St Arcons-d'Allier, St Julien des Chazes and Prades. 10 Pilgrim path The fairytale St Michel d'Aiguilhe chapel perches almost impossibly atop a sheer volcanic lava cone 80 metres high in the pilgrimage centre of Le Puy en Velay. The town's hill-top World Heritage Notre Dame Cathedral dates from the 12th century and is surrounded by medieval streets. Climb the steep steps to the top of another volcanic cone, the Rocher Cornelle. On the summit stands a statue of the Virgin Mary made from more than 200 cannons captured in the Crimean War and melted down. A narrow spiral staircase inside the 16-metre statue permits fine views of the town and its distinctive red roofs. Every year, pilgrims set out from Le Puy to walk the 1,600km to Santiago de Compostela in Spain on the national GR65 trail. You can return your hire car here and take a train back to Paris. Train tickets from Paris to Clermont-Ferrand can be booked at www.voyages-SNCF.com .