1 Capital delights
Clermont-Ferrand is the capital of France's stunning and sparsely populated Auvergne region, and the starting point for a memorable motoring tour offering gourmet delights amid a vista of extinct volcanoes, glacial lakes, gorges, forests, medieval towns and villages that dot the wild Massif Central. Arrive in Clermont-Ferrand by train directly from Paris and pick up your hire car. But before driving off into the nearby Volcanoes Regional Park (one of the largest protected areas in Europe) walk up to the medieval heart of the city and explore the narrow, cobbled streets that huddle around Notre Dame Cathedral. The old quarter was built atop the plug of an ancient volcano, and the cathedral is distinctive, being pitch black, built from volcanic rock quarried nearby in the small town of Volvic (famed for its mineral water). The streets around the old city are lively at night, when locals head for the bars, restaurants and clubs.
2 Wine route
The rich and diverse volcanic soils, protection against the west winds offered by the mountains and low precipitation help make the Auvergne one of the oldest wine-growing areas in France, although the vintages are little known outside the region. Gamay grapes produce fruity red wines, pinot noir wines are aged in oak casks, and chardonnay does well in the chalky clay soils. There are three major wine-growing areas, and vineyards can be visited right on Clermont's doorstep. The helpful staff at the tourism office around the corner from the cathedral will provide addresses and maps.
3 Volcanic view
The Puy de Dome, a towering volcanic dome 15km from Clermont-Ferrand, dominates the skyline, rising to 1,465 metres. You can drive to the top on a private toll road, and in good weather there are terrific views of the chain of about 80 extinct volcanoes stretching for more than 40km. A long-distance national hiking trail wends its way through the volcanoes, and trekkers can sample part of it by taking a train from Clermont to Volvic for the half-day walk to the Puy de Dome. There's a restaurant and volcanology museum at the summit, but they're latecomers. The Romans were among the first to discover the magnificent panoramic view up here and built a temple dedicated to Mercury more than 2,000 years ago.