bodyType

customContents

entityId

entityUuid

articlePageQuery

filter

article

articleBaseAdvertisingInfoArticle

articleListArticle

articleSeoArticle

helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle

hooksArticleAcknowledgementGateOverlayArticle

hooksTrackPageViewArticle

hooksContentInterestArticle

articleLinkingDataContent

hooksAmpRedirectArticle

articleSchemaContent

liveArticle

advertZone

sentiment

contentLock

topics

types

sections

moreOnThisArticles

urlAlias

commentCount

authorLocations

authors

paywallTypes

corrections

sponsorType

displaySlideShow

multimediaEmbed

printHeadline

seriesContainer

socialHeadline

headline

flag

firstTopic

glossary

flattenTypeIds

publishedDate

additionalInfoBoxes

images

image

relatedLinks

relatedNewsletters

__typename

createdDate

sponsor

pdfFiles

seriesReverseOrder

series

disableOffPlatformContent

published

updatedDate

summary

subHeadline

body

keywords

readingTime

customTimezone

liveContents

Susan Jung

Address: Harvey Nichols, the Landmark,  15 Queen's Rd, Central

Tel: 3695 3389

Open: noon-midnight

Cuisine: Modern European.

Ambience: It's busy and hip'n'happening during  the day. At night, when there aren't as many people, the long, narrow space seems cold and the changing neon lights - which a guest compared to those on  an airport runway (albeit a wonky one) - cast a disorientating glow.

Price:  $600 per person for a three-course meal with  a glass of wine and 10 per cent service charge.

Pros: Innovative combinations and enticing descriptions of dishes, which made it hard to choose.

Cons: High prices, especially for the appetisers. Small portions that might satisfy rail-thin fashionistas, but not those with healthier appetites.

Recommended dishes: Frogs' legs with sauteed  garlic escargots and poached egg ($175) was an odd-sounding combination that worked beautifully. The escargots were tender and meaty, but they paled by comparison with the frog's legs.  The tiny legs had  a delicate crust that gave way to wonderfully juicy meat. The runny yolk of the  egg added a creamy texture. The waiter asked how I wanted the roasted rabbit saddle to be cooked - he suggested medium-well, which would have been  too over-done for this delicate cut of meat. Two of the pieces were perfect - moist and juicy, but the other two were overcooked. The accompaniments of shredded potato pancake, tangy leeks and crispy belly cracklings almost made up for the disappointment of the dry, tough meat. White sesame panna cotta with black sesame ice cream ($85) was silky smooth, with the thin sesame biscuit underneath adding a nice contrasting crunch. It had a cool, modern presentation, although the vanilla sponge powder (served in a test tube) didn't have much flavour. It tasted like lady-finger biscuits that had been dried and then crushed.

What else? My guest thought her red mullet ($230, left) tasted too fishy, a flavour enhanced by the topping of caviar. I'll definitely be back to try the intriguing dish of pig's head with honey and cloves.



Fourth Floor Restaurant and Bar