Reading a label on a packet of smoked salmon can be confusing. The makers use terms such as lox, hot-smoked, cold-smoked, cured and Nova Scotia. The salmon all looks similar (pinkish and fish-like), so what do all the terms mean?
What is it? Salmon that's been salted and smoked.
What's the difference? Cold-smoked, lox and Nova Scotia salmon are similar; the producers use the terms according to their own preference. The fish has been salted then smoked at a low temperature - about 25 degrees Celsius - which gives the finished product a delicate texture and flavour. Hot-smoked salmon has been salted but smoked at a higher temperature, giving it a more intense, smoky flavour and slightly drier texture. Both types are typically served thinly sliced.
How to choose: the best cold-smoked salmon is not too salty and has a texture that feels rich, moist, smooth and silky on the tongue. Hot-smoked salmon should have a good balance of flavours from the brine (salt, sugar and other seasonings) and smoke. With both types, price is sometimes - but not always - an indication of quality. Buy packets of smoked salmon in small quantities until you find a brand you like.
What else? A product made from larger fish is almost always better than one made from smaller salmon. Large salmon have a higher fat content, which gives both flavour and texture. If a recipe doesn't indicate which type to use, it probably means cold-smoked. And, unless your carving skills are excellent, buy smoked salmon that's been sliced. The slices should be thin and even.
How to use: lox with a toasted bagel and cream cheese is a classic combination that's hard to beat. Smoked salmon is also good with blini, as an alternative to the much more expensive caviar, and