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Vivienne Tang

Meet the region's leading  fashion designers

A third-generation jeweller, Mahesh Bharany  made his debut in the  industry in 1987, joining

the family business, Bharany's, after studying business at the University of California in Los Angeles. In an effort to modernise the company, Bharany restructured it and raised its profile through exhibitions and trunk shows. As overseas business grew, their designs also evolved, although the brand's signature Mughal-style enamelling and rosecut diamonds  are still evident. All pieces are hand-crafted.

When did you launch your label?

The family business was launched in 1906 by my grandfather Radhakrishan Bharany.

Have you always wanted to be a designer?

I've always been aesthetically inclined and fascinated with the artistry of jewellery. I grew up surrounded by art in its various forms which heightened my artistic and design sensibilities.

What's the company's structure?

Bharany's is headed by my father, Chotte Lal Bharany. My brother Ramji and I handle all aspects

of the jewellery department - from design to production.

I also handle sales and client development. There is also a team for creative input.

How many lines are there?

We have several different lines and recently developed a diffusion line in collaboration with a renowned international clothing designer. We're in the process of creating a special line for his stores.

How does India influence  your designs?

We get  a lot of inspiration  from old Mughal miniatures and architecture,  particularly from the forts which are  the primary inspiration for enamelling and colour combinations. We often add a contemporary twist to the Mughal designs to give each piece a unique, one-of-a-kind character. We source unusually shaped stones and combine different textures and materials.

Who are your customers?

The royal families of India, Hollywood and Bollywood stars. Goldie Hawn wore a necklace to the Golden Globes.

What inspires you?

The compliments that we get from our clients are our biggest motivation. They encourage us to create more unusual pieces that stand out.

What does your current collection look like?

This year we've done a lot of studded bead necklaces. We mostly  use  semi-precious beads that are adorned with diamonds. We also  use baroque pearls for some of the  pieces.

What  makes your business successful?

Innovative designs and great craftsmanship set us apart from other jewellers.

What else do you design?

We don't design clothes but do have a great collection of old Indian textiles including cashmere shawls.

Where are your designs available?

Through private  exhibitions that are  regularly  held in the US, Hong Kong, Dubai, Kuwait and  Britain.  We also have a store at Sunder Nagar Market in New Delhi.

Do people's tastes in Asia differ from those of people abroad?

People in the US love dramatic, heavy pieces; in Asia people prefer smaller and simpler pieces.

Where do you want to expand?

Asia and the US.  They like everything that's Indian in the US.  Indian jewellery is  in vogue now.

What are your future plans?

We're trying to create more contemporary designs while retaining the old world quality.

We are responding actively to market trends and fashion.



Mahesh Bharany