A waterfront promenade, Copenhagen's Nyhavn was for centuries the playground of the drunken sailor. Here, most shore-leave needs were catered to along a 500-metre stretch of watering-holes, bordellos and tattoo parlours. These days, bacchanalia has been replaced by gentrification and high-end gastronomy. The Baroque architecture has been preserved and the restaurants all offer al fresco dining with views of vessels sailing through this corner of the Baltic Sea, many bringing fish to Nyhavn's kitchens.
Skipperkroen
Nyhavn 27
This restaurant (below) is so highly regarded that it even draws lunchtime visitors from Sweden, who nip over to Denmark via the Oresund Bridge. The fish platter for Kr68 ($68) offers one species - herring, of course - prepared three ways: curried (a la coronation chicken); spiced and with red onion; and marinated with capers and egg. All are sublime. The local standby provides another highlight in the form of the Skipperskroen shrimp plate (Kr79), which employs dill and egg to accentuate the sweet flavour. If bad weather forces diners inside, the maritime-themed interior adds much to the Skipperkroen experience.
Havfruen
Nyhavn 39
The manager says this was Ernest Hemingway's favourite Copenhagen eatery and he visited whenever he was in town. With its busty mermaid figurehead it's hard to miss. Once she adorned a ship's bow, now she looms over Havfruen's entrance. Talk about a harvest of the seas: the marinated herring (Kr59) is first-class, as are the mussels in white wine with herbs (Kr90) and the oysters on ice with shallot wine vinegar (Kr140). The roast plaice with herb and butter sauce (Kr180) is a chef's recommendation. Avoid the fried tiger prawns Oriental style, which my companion described as 'faux Asian and rubbery'.