The Chinese and western versions of oxtail stew are equally rich and hearty, but the former is flavoured with five-spice powder and soy, whereas the latter has its base in a mirepoix of celery, carrots and onions. If cooked correctly (long and slowly), the collagen in the oxtail dissolves, adding richness and stickiness. The taste of a good oxtail stew is deep and intense throughout - there are no sharp, light flavours. Cline Small Berry Mourvedre 2003, Contra Costa County, California Mourvedre is one of the key grapes in the Rhone Valley and an integral component of all Rhone-Rangers. It's rare to find a good single release such as this Cline. This is an intense and stylish wine, deep purple and dense, with a full, weighty palate. The lovely violet-like spicy fruit mingles well with subtle oak. The wine is unexpectedly pure in Mourvedre character, and its richness and fruitiness add a new dimension to stewed oxtail, complementing the sticky meatiness. Available for $422 from Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121) Cypress Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, San Jose, California It had long been thought that red wine needed slow air permeation through the cork to mature gracefully. An elaborate tasting in Paris a couple of years ago proved this wrong. Winemakers of super reds such as Grange, Chateau Margaux and Opus One conducted a double-blind tasting in which cork-closed wines were compared with screw-capped wines of the same maturity. The overwhelming preference for the freshness and liveliness in the screw-capped bottles was a revelation. But it will take time to change consumer perceptions before screw-capped reds are accepted. This Cypress is fresh and fruity - the screw cap took care of that - with a huge amount of fruit. The tannins are supple, making it perfect with stewed oxtail with porcini. Available for $134 from Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121) Reserve de la Comtesse 2001, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France This Reserve de la Comtesse has been improved by stylistic changes over the past decade. Unlike many so-called second wines in Bordeaux, this wine has good fruit and quality oak, and is worth ageing. It has classic notes of cedar and is lightly smoky. There are some attractive and harmonious chocolate notes from charred barrels. The fruit structure is deep and lean. A good match for stewed oxtail with caramelised shallots. Available for $480 from Watson's (tel: 2147 3641)
