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Susan Jung

Clams come in lots of sizes, a few shapes and many varieties.

What are they? Bivalves, most of which have the familiar clam shape, although some are  more elongated. They range in size from geoducks  (which weigh about a kilo or more) down to tiny clams about 1cm long. The delicious, tender bamboo clams are long and thin, resembling the plant they're named after.

What are the differences? In general, smaller clams are more tender and easier to prepare - you can basically just cook and eat them; unlike with the larger varieties, it isn't necessary to remove the stomach and other  parts. Smaller clams can be eaten whole, while larger ones are usually chopped.

What to look for: clams should be alive and spitting - literally: they squirt water from their necks. They should be displayed in tubs of water. Don't buy clams that look dried out and avoid ones with broken shells.

How are they available? For most preparations, fresh is best. Clam meat is also sold in cans or frozen and made into convenience foods, such as soup and battered, deep-fried clam strips.

In Chinese cuisine, tiny clams (less than 1cm) are preserved  and used in a wonderfully salty, tangy concoction,  which is used as a dipping sauce for deep-fried fish balls and boiled pig's trotters.

How to use: clams can be eaten raw, but make sure you know where they came from and how they have been stored. For raw clams on the half shell or geoduck (frequently served as sashimi), it's better

to go to a restaurant you trust rather than try to prepare the dishes yourself from clams purchased

in the wet market.

Clams are used in many cuisines and can be cooked many ways: steamed, baked, grilled, boiled, fried, sauteed and stir-fried, and made into fritters, soups and stews. For a subtle dish, saute clams with butter, white wine and garlic. For a more assertive dish, cook them with garlic, slices of Spanish chorizo and strips of red pepper. To make the classic Cantonese dish of clams with black bean sauce, rinse salted, fermented black beans briefly, soak in a little rice wine and mash them roughly. Heat oil in a wok, add lightly crushed garlic cloves and sliced ginger, and stir-fry until fragrant. Add clams (about 2.5cm in length), the black beans and rice wine, a little sliced fresh chilli (if desired), a splash of soy sauce and some broth or water. Cover with the lid, lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the clams open (about five minutes). Stir in sesame oil and minced spring onions.



clams