Although goulash - or gulyas leves - comes from Hungary, the term is widely used in Europe to mean a creamy beef stew. The original is distinct from other versions in that it has the liberal addition of fragrant paprika, or powdered dried red peppers. The spice adds a delicate sweetness, but, more importantly, a sublime smokiness. Goulash is a meal in itself, often served with potatoes, dumplings or various shapes of noodles. With or without paprika, goulash is full of rich, hearty, rounded base notes. Brightly flavoured white wines such as the perfumed viognier or refreshing riesling bring too much contrast in flavour notes and temperature. Simple Australian reds leave the combination one-dimensional. Complex, fruity reds with savoury oaky notes are ideal. Dry, assertive tannins will also go a long way to freshen the palate. Chateau Montrose 2001, Bordeaux, France The 2001 Bordeaux vintage produced wines that were in great contrast to the luscious, opulent and easy-to-understand 2000 vintage. In every commune of Bordeaux, the 2001 was much more classic and elegant - a return to tradition. This Chateau Montrose is brightly coloured with restrained perfume. Without a doubt, this vintage has the fruit concentration needed to pair with a traditional Hungarian gulyas; the 2000 Montrose could be somewhat overpowering. The savoury charred oakey notes integrate with the goulash's creamy richness and smoky paprika notes. The slightly angular tannins add freshness and dryness to the palate. Don't drink this Montrose with any kind of cheese. Available for $899 from Watson's (tel: 2147 3641) Charles Melton Nine Popes 2002, Barossa Valley, Australia This Nine Popes is a play on the French Chateauneuf-du-Pape, an internationally famous wine region for grenache blends. Quite unlike the contemporary style of Australian reds, this Nine Popes wine isn't loaded with new oak. It's highly focused, rather than rounded, easy and fluffy. There are small tonal peaks and troughs between the different grapes, mainly grenache, mourvedre and shiraz. These flavour tonal highs and lows combine well with the roundness of mushroom goulash with chive dumplings. Anyone who has been lucky enough to try a 10-year-old Nine Popes is probably that much closer to eternal happiness. Available for $338 from Wine'n'Things (tel: 2873 5733) Sangiovese, Foppiano Vineyards 2002 Alexander Valley, California The prolific growth of Italian culture didn't stop at food, and the sangiovese is a good example of that. The sangiovese grape is the key ingredient in the Chianti wine of central Italy, and this Californian wine has retained its entire Italian heritage. It's savoury with good acid and assertive tannins. The wine has softened in the US - especially the tannins and acid. There's some sweet, coffee-like oak to wrap it up. Try this with a simple tomato-based beef goulash with vegetables and macaroni. Available for $183 from Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121) simon@iwinecentre.com
