In years gone by, the Dear Leader's birthday bash has always stood out on the party scene in Tokyo. The Americans celebrate Independence Day and the British raise a glass on Queen Elizabeth's official birthday, but the event to be on the 'A-list' for is the knees-up praising Kim Jong-il for another year of uncannily expert 'guidance'.
The party on Tuesday was at the headquarters of Chongryun, the umbrella group for North Korean residents of Japan that retains close links with the Pyongyang regime. As on previous birthdays - Mr Kim's 64th big day actually fell on Thursday - there were speeches and toasts, a retinue of young women in the traditional chogori dress served drinks, well-built young men with earpieces scanned the banquet hall and mounds of excellent food were devoured by the guests.
But despite the similarities, the differences also stood out. The ornate hall was not as full as 12 months ago. There were far fewer representatives of African and Middle Eastern embassies. At the end of the evening, which lasted a mere 90 minutes instead of the usual two hours, a lot of food and drink remained untouched.
There were fewer officials from non-governmental organisations and, perhaps less surprising, no Japanese members of the Diet. To attend today would be political suicide, although it was not that many years ago when Tomiichi Murayama attended one of Chongryun's parties. He had recently served as Japanese prime minister and his Social Democratic Party was in favour of improving ties with Pyongyang. The party had also played down suggestions that North Korean agents had abducted Japanese nationals for its espionage programme. Inevitably, the SDP took a beating when it became clear that its friends across the Sea of Japan had been more than a little economical with the truth.
But Tokyo's pack of foreign correspondents was out in force at this week's party, and acquitted itself admirably in picking up the slack when it came to the food and drink. The meal comes as a pleasant sidebar to the evening's main aim: to shake hands with the senior members of Chongryun and slip into the conversation the desire to visit their socialist paradise.
Pyongyang's people here have heard the request before, but they nod and smile and say what a good idea that would be. And we smile back and say how it would increase international understanding and promote peace. And we both know that the chances of a trip ever materialising are slim, but we have to go through the motions.
