The soybean pastes known collectively as miso are extremely important in Japanese cuisine. They are used in a lot more than the soups so common at Japanese restaurants.
What is it? A thick paste made from soybeans that have been fermented and aged with salt and an edible mould. They can be classified by colour, flavour and the type of mould used to start the fermentation. In Japan, the popularity of different miso varies from region to region. Shops that stock Japanese food products (such as Sogo and Uny) carry dozens of varieties of miso, from mass-produced to organic misos made in small batches without preservatives.
What are the differences? In general, lighter-coloured misos are milder, sweeter, less salty and more versatile than the darker, more assertive types, which tend to be more heavily fermented. Traditionally made misos are more expensive than the mass-produced varieties and are usually more complex in flavour and fragrance.
Recipes should (but don't always) specify the type of miso required. The lighter misos are suitable for uncooked dishes (such as salad dressings and dips) or in preparations that are cooked quickly (such as miso soup), but they can also be used in many other dishes. The richness of dark miso is better in heavier, slow-cooked foods.
What else? Miso is extremely nutritious but can be high in sodium.
There are many flavour variations even within the same classification of miso (such as white and red), so people with a serious interest in Japanese cooking should try as many brands as possible before deciding which type they like best. To personalise your cooking and give your food even more variation, you can mix different misos, adjusting the combinations to your taste.
