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Devilled and the deep blue sea

IMAGINE A TRIP around Victoria Harbour, with an appetising spread of Chinese canapes in front of you and the breathtaking skyline of Hong Kong Island in the background.

Mantis shrimps steeped in Chinese rose wine, bamboo clams topped with scallion and garlic sauce, a spicy salad of shark's lips, calamari rings marinated with dark soy sauce, and a full bar serving the finest wines and cocktails to keep the spirits high and conversation flowing. And that's just for starters.

This is cocktail hour aboard Aqua Luna, a traditional-style Chinese junk-cum-floating restaurant on which passengers are treated to sumptuous dining as the boat glides through Victoria Harbour.

A boat or junk is a quintessential way to enjoy Hong Kong and its outlying islands. Until recently, junk-trippers had to make do with finger-food, with chips and beer featuring prominently.

But a handful of restaurants and five-star hotels have started taking cruise cuisine way above sea level.

'Although boat parties and excursions are common in Hong Kong, few provide dining in a luxurious setting, serving top quality food,' says Calvin Yeung, who launched the Aqua Luna cruises.

The 92-foot Chinese junk is owned by the Aqua Restaurant Group, whose stable of restaurants includes Aqua, WasabiSabi, Shui Hu Ju, Ayuthaiya, Water Margin and Hutong. Handcrafted from scratch by a 73-year-old local boat builder, the junk offers 1,500sqft of functional indoor and al fresco space, split into two wooden decks. Its full bar and cocktail lounge can accommodate up to 80 people at a time.

Yeung says Aqua Luna is a dream come true because it combines two of his passions - the water and fine food.

You can request menus from any of the Aqua restaurants - buffet or sit-down - but Yeung recommends the Chinese canape menu he created for the junk.

'My staff and I are actively involved in the production and presentation of dishes, as well as special training,' Yeung says.

Most food is prepared in the junk's kitchen, although some is pre-prepared at the restaurants. 'We don't do any frying onboard because of safety regulations,' Yeung says.

The Grand Hyatt has gone a step further with its 150-foot yacht, Grand Cru. One of the largest in Asia, Grand Cru boasts six staterooms, a dining and living room that can accommodate up to 80 people, a bar and lounge area, an entertainment room with karaoke, and a spacious sundeck with jacuzzi. It's booked for private parties such as weddings and birthdays, and by corporate clients looking for something that's less predictable than other venues.

The Grand Hyatt catering team oversees all of the culinary aspects, including menus, wine lists and serving staff. Chinese and western menus are available and all food is prepared onboard.

Guests can feast on delicacies such as Dungeness crab with caviar and asparagus in cherry vinaigrette, marinated prawns and grilled scallops on mesclun salad with toasted pine nuts, and pan-fried seabass on green spinach with champagne chive sauce. Desserts include cherry and raspberry compote with pistachio ice cream cannelloni.

Those looking for less plush settings can try Jaspas Junk. The Jaspas Group of restaurants operates six junks, catering to private and corporate functions.

'We're basically a one-stop party venue,' says Jaspas Junk manager Malcolm Williamson. 'We take care of everything. All guests have to do is show up.'

Williamson says all the junks have full kitchens and everything is cooked onboard. 'Nothing is pre-cooked. The chefs work in our restaurants and are assigned onboard duty whenever required. We have an in-house signature menu or we can tailor a menu to meet clients' requirements, whether it's Asian fare, a breakfast or cocktail selection.'

The latest menu features appetisers such as lamb koftas, Mexican chicken and cheese quesadillas and grilled chicken satay. Main courses are salmon fillet with white wine sauce, vegetarian moussaka, grilled chicken breast or beef tenderloin.

Another boat charter company, Saffron Cruises, has a fleet of four luxury junks, including the traditional three-mast Wing Sing. It uses catering companies to offer cocktail and dinner menus featuring the likes of mini Peking duck, roast beef with bite-size Yorkshire pudding, and salmon and leek nori tempura with wasabi dip for appetisers. Mains include seabass fillet on leek and onion tart and Moroccan spiced chicken breast with almond and pumpkin couscous.

As well as catering for private and corporate functions, Saffron hosts jazz evenings, wine tastings, fireworks nights and theme evenings.

Tanka, a restored junk permanently moored just minutes from Sai Kung pier, is operated by SaiSquare, a local waterfront restaurant. It offers sophisticated dining with elegant table settings and a four-course fusion menu complemented by selected wines.

A SaiSquare spokesperson says its nutritionist-chef also compiles special menus and can cater for people with allergies and special dietary needs.

Some of Tanka's fusion dishes include strawberry and chilli sorbet, vodka, melon and lemongrass soup and smoked salmon in a gin marinade with watercress.

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