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Pin Lee

LG/F, Pacific Place, Admiralty

Tel: 2522 8830

Open: 11am-3pm, 6pm-11.30pm

Cuisine: A mixture of contemporary French and traditional dishes.

Ambience:  Stylish and chic, with  contemporary minimalist decor. Tables in the indoor courtyard  have an alfresco feel.

Price: A three-course meal  was $550 per person, including 10 per cent service charge, a glass  of wine each (prices are about $75  per glass)  and coffee.

Pros: The menu is  traditional bistro fare, but comprehensive enough to cater for everyone.  The food is beautifully presented.

Cons: Despite  booking a day  ahead, we were given a table next to the kitchen door - and the place wasn't even full.  The staff were gracious but not especially attentive and seemed  inexperienced.  Service was  slow. Wine  by the glass  was on the small side. Mediterranean fish stew with  aioli and toasted garlic bread ($168) was disappointing.  Rather than a rich stew,  it was chunks of dry,  over-poached fish  in  salty broth.

Recommended dishes: For starters,  the vegetable salad with seared tuna and olive oil dressing ($88, left) and crab cakes with crushed avocado on tangy cocktail dressing ($98) were both up to the mark. The fresh tuna was  delicately seared, and the crab cakes' soft, creamy interior  contrasted well with the slightly crisp exterior.  For mains, the grilled rib-eye steak  with Bearnaise sauce, fries and green salad ($198)  won our approval. The meat was tender, juicy and  perfectly grilled.  For dessert, the baked chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream ($98) turned out to be another winner. The cake was  rich and moist, with a molten creamy chocolate interior, complemented by  the nutty ice cream. The almond latte ($38) was generous and came with a fresh chocolate cookie.

What else? The restaurant  used to be La Cite.  The new incarnation features a separate wine bar called La Cave.  Last orders are at 10.30pm, but you can still get sandwiches and snacks after that.



La Fourchette Bistro Moderne