Moussaka is a traditional Greek farmers' dish. It's similar to lasagne, but layers of eggplant (aubergine) are used instead of pasta. The other difference is that true moussaka calls for minced lamb instead of pork, beef or veal. The main flavours of the dish come from fully ripened tomatoes, Greek oregano, lots of garlic and some chilli. Moussaka is often topped with a bechamel-like, creamy cheese sauce. The best wine with moussaka needs to have rich complex fruit notes, plenty of resolved tannins and good natural acidity. Given the full-flavoured nature of minced lamb and the flavour notes of the herbs, red wine seems more natural than the contrasting bright flavours of most whites.
Alain Brumont Chateau Bouscasse 2000, Madiran, France
Few people know where Madiran is and even fewer have heard of the tannat grape. However, these two combine to give one of the most exquisite, long-lived but sadly least known French classics. Tannat is a sturdy grape, but hasn't thrived anywhere beyond southwest France, although there are some in Argentina and Uruguay. Tannat wines are usually dense, dark, and dry, with plenty of tough tannins - more a result of local winemaking traditions than an inherent grape characteristic. Madiran master Alain Brumont single-handedly makes this category worth noticing. This wine is almost black. It has voluptuous fruit that stands up to the rich moussaka. There are plenty of black fruit/berry notes. The herbs, tomatoes and garlic richness in the dish add to the wine's berry complexity and smoky hints from oak maturation. The wine works well with the moussaka's savoury finish.
Available for $171 from Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)
Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir 2003, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia
Stonier isn't just the pioneer vigneron of the picturesque peninsula; it's also synonymous with high-quality, cool-climate Australian pinot noir. These are complex, fruit-driven seasonally reflective wines. They're always balanced especially with respect to oak. This Stonier reserve is rich, with plenty of deep lively fruit flavours. They relate well to the moussaka richness. The wine's texture also interacts well with the creamy, flavour-soaked eggplant.