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4/F China Resources Building,  26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai

Tel: 2884 9088

Open: noon-midnight

Cuisine: This  Quanjude franchise serves  not only the expected  Beijing food, but  also a wide range of Cantonese and Shanghainese dishes.

Price: Less than $200 per person for dinner.

Ambience: We were seated at an aisle  table next to the lobby of this tourist-filled restaurant, because the guest rooms were  booked. It was  noisy because the other side of the lobby is connected to a dining hall with a dance floor, where loud music was being played. Many dancers smoked in the lobby despite the no-smoking sign, but the staff didn't stop them.

Pros: You don't need to fly to the Chinese capital to enjoy the renowned roast duck. The staff were patient and cheerful.

Cons: The environment isn't conducive to  a relaxing meal because it's too noisy and smoky. The quality of the dishes varies. The Empress Dowager Cixi yellow broad bean cakes ($18 for four pieces)  were inedible.  They tasted like mashed, uncooked bean paste without any sugar or other seasonings.

Recommended dishes: Every table ordered the Quanjude roast duck ($280 for whole duck, $140 for half duck, right) and  it was excellent. A chef presented the large, roasted duck on a cart and carved the skin and  meat quickly and expertly. Served with hot pancakes, scallions, cucumber slices and condiments, the shiny brown skin was crisp and the meat was juicy and tender (although it had a little too much fat). Braised fish  head with bean vermicelli, sliced pork and bean curd ($128) was also worth trying. It  was served in a large porcelain pot, and the ingredients absorbed the rich, spicy sauce that lingered on our palates.

What else? There's another Quanjude franchise in Tsim Sha Tsui East (tel:  2316 7218).



Hong Kong Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant