When Omotesando Hills (below left) opened with a big commotion last month, traditionalists complained the boxy shopping complex wasn't a patch on the ivy-covered residences it replaced. Only time will tell whether Tadao Ando's subtle, conservative design is seen as a classic, but it is as eye-catching as the confectionery-box designer stores around it. There are 93 shops and restaurants inside Omotesando Hills, so at least shoppers, if not design purists, are happy.
Nostalgic art fans should visit Gallery 412 (D302, tel: 813 5410 0388), an exhibition space that once resided in Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments, the crumbling old building replaced by Omotesando Hills. Exhibitions have included work by Le Corbusier and Toko Shinoda. TULB, or Tone Up A Little Bit (M214, tel: 813 5410 0118), is a tie and shirt shop specialising in off-the-peg designs and custom-made creations in signature colourful cloth for 16,000 yen ($1,040) to 25,000 yen.
Recency of Mine Abahouse (M216, tel: 813 5410 1390) offers a selection of the priciest menswear lines from the well-known Abahouse chain. Fans of Japanese anime, meanwhile, should head to Shitateya Studio Ghibli (M220, tel: 813 5410 0720), which sells a range of men's apparel inspired by Porco Rosso, the lead character in the Studio Ghibli movie of the same name.
Omotesando Saryo (M112, tel: 813 5772 0309) houses a cafe, pastry shop, gallery and chocolate store. The furniture is by Sori Yanagi and Philippe Starck and there are art pieces for sale by a variety of international and local artists. If the art is out of reach, settle for the exquisite hand-made chocolates (1,000 yen each).
Ahkah (MB115, tel: 813 5785 0790) sells Akemi Fukuoji's flawless jewellery. Glamorous store D (MB101, tel: 813 5410 0830) stocks accessories of all kinds for the discerning woman, including limited-edition, individually made nails, featuring precious stones, peacock feathers and all manner of vampish and bizarre adornments.
You'll struggle to get the boys out of Kyosho (below right; MB313, tel: 813 5785 0280), a hobby store that sells miniature car models (try 4,000 yen for a replica Japanese bus) and houses a small bar and a large racing track.