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Amrit Dhillon

As the world's luxury brands seduce Indians with their exquisite workmanship and fine quality, there is one thing they need not fear - competition from homegrown luxury brands.

Despite the fabulous opulence of the maharajas, India has not developed any names that are synonymous with luxury, with the exception of the hospitality sector.

Hotel chains such as the Oberoi and the Taj represent quality and top service throughout India. Some of the Oberoi properties - Amarvilas  in Agra and Rajvilas  in Jaipur - are among the best in the world.

Arvind Singhal,  the chairman of retail consultancy KSA Technopak,  is not surprised at the absence of domestic brands.

'Do rich countries like Australia, Canada or Japan have a luxury brand? It's only a few countries - Britain, France and Italy and lately the United States with designers like Ralph Lauren - who have developed global luxury brands.'

Most of the world's big, high-end brands are predominantly  associated with women's wear, accessories and jewellery and it is in these areas that Mr Singhal believes India may eventually produce its own big names.

For years now, Indian fashion designers have been trying to make  their mark on the world stage.  But so far their efforts have largely failed. Even within India, their operations are ad hoc, disorganised and on an exceedingly small scale. Their outlets are limited and quality unreliable.

'Some have only got outfits in one size. How can women fit into one size? And the seams on my dress started coming apart after the first wash,' said Nonita Thakur, an Indian settled in the US visiting New Delhi.

Most designers are still patronised predominantly for wedding  attire. Nevertheless, a few, such as Tarun Tahiliani and Ashish Soni, are establishing themselves as solid domestic brands.

The only 'competition' facing western luxury brands when they enter the Indian market is that which stems from ingrained cultural traditions. So when rich Indians get married, they will opt for a heavily embroidered JJ Vallya or Ritu Beri outfit rather than a Versace or Chanel creation.

And the bride's bling will come from  long-established, trusted jewellers  such as Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri,  a company known to generations of Indians.

'The big western names in jewellery and fashion will do well in India because more young women are wearing western clothes. But I don't see them ousting some old Indian names. They will coexist,' said Mr Singhal.



Top brands have little to fear as would-be rivals struggle