Lamb is a meat that's associated with spring because that's usually when baby sheep are born. What is it? Meat from sheep that are less than a year old. When they get older, the meat is called mutton. What's the difference? As with most animals, younger lambs are more tender than their older counterparts. Baby lamb (which sounds redundant, but isn't) has pale, pinkish-white flesh that tastes sweet and mild; the colour of the meat gets darker as animal age increases. The flavour also gets stronger. What to look for: it depends on what you want it for. Baby lamb is delicious, but it's much more expensive than older lamb and, because the flavour is so mild, it needs to be cooked with more subtle seasonings. Certain cuts of lamb should be cooked quickly, while others can withstand long, slow braising. What else? Lamb used to be seasonal but, thanks to freezers and global shipping, it's now available year-round. American lamb has a milder flavour than that from Australia and New Zealand. How to use: if you're lucky enough to get a whole baby lamb, have the butcher butterfly it (split it down the backbone then open it so it lays more-or-less flat). Season the lamb with garlic, extra virgin olive oil, rosemary, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, then grill it over indirect heat. Whole baby lamb isn't the easiest thing to find in Hong Kong, so the same seasonings - with the addition of some red wine - can be used for a leg of lamb. Cut slits into the meat and stuff them with sliced garlic and a rosemary sprig, rub with olive oil and wine, sprinkle with salt and pepper and marinate for at least 24 hours in the fridge before roasting in the oven. Rack of lamb is a classic French dish that's easy to cook at home. Have the butcher chine the rack (remove the backbone). Season the meat with salt and pepper then use a pastry brush to coat it lightly with Dijon mustard. Mix dry breadcrumbs with minced garlic, fresh parsley, thyme and lemon zest. Press the crumb mixture firmly into the meat so it adheres to the crumbs then roast until it's cooked to your liking. For a northern Chinese lamb dish that's usually stuffed into sesame pocket bread, cut boneless lamb into matchstick pieces and marinate with soy sauce, rice wine, salt, pepper and sesame oil. Cut Beijing spring onions in half lengthwise then on the diagonal into pieces about 3cm long. Heat oil in a wok and stir-fry sliced garlic, ginger and fresh chillies. Add the spring onions and cook to wilt then add the lamb and stir-fry until the meat loses its pink colour. Stir in a little water or broth, lower the heat, cover with the lid and simmer for about two minutes. Stir in some sesame oil and fresh coriander and serve immediately.
