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Vivienne Tang

Meet the region's leading  fashion designers

The daughter of a Vietnamese father and French mother,  Barbara Bui was born and raised in Paris. She studied literature and graduated with a master's degree from  the Sorbonne.  After graduation she opened a fashion boutique called Kabuki, and  in 1987 launched her  label, Barbara Bui. In 1998, she added  a diffusion line, Barbara Bui Initials, focusing on trousers and separates. Today, she designs three collections,  and has free-standing stores and her own  cafe in Paris. She regularly  shows at Paris Fashion Week  and is a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Francaise et des Createurs de Mode.

Have you always wanted to be a designer?

No, I initially wanted to be a writer and studied literature  at university. Then I learnt everything about fashion myself and decided to launch my own label.

How did you set up the label?

In 1983, I opened  a multi-brand boutique, where  I slowly began to introduce my own designs. My first creations were so successful  I decided to launch my own ready-to-wear collection.

What's the structure  of the company?

There are 125 employees. I work on everything with a design team.

How many lines are there?

Barbara Bui is a  French brand that meets the needs of the refined and modern Parisian woman. The line stands for cutting-edge fashion, and offers highly creative  collections.  Barbara Bui Initials focuses on day-wear  that contains elements of  the original line.  Bui is a sporty yet chic  casualwear line.

What's the design philosophy?

I create a   young, fresh look mixed with a couture spirit. It's  a combination of rock'n'roll and a more romantic attitude for the contemporary  woman. I mix light and strong materials  for a fluid structure.

Who are your customers?

Urban and contemporary women. I also wear my designs every day.

What inspires you?

Other forms of art and films.

What does your current collection look like?

My spring/summer collection features shimmery silk wrap dresses,  embellished tops  and shorts.  It also includes floaty tops and  trousers in earthy colours such as beige, khaki and bronze.

What are the factors that make your business successful?

I share my  clients' desires.

What else do you design?

Bags, shoes and sometimes jewellery.

Where are your designs available?

I have  free-standing stores in Paris, Milan and New York, and  350  sales points in  more than 50 countries. I sell at The Swank in Hong Kong.

How do your roots influence you?

My Asian and European roots give me a different sense of sensuality - a less aggressive one. I'm able to see both sides and combine them in my work.

Where do you want to expand?

Barbara Bui is  well-established in Europe and  the US, so our next step  is to focus on the Asian market, especially China.

What has been the biggest influence in your career?

I'm  impressed by the work of  Yves Saint Laurent, but  I still try to do my own thing.

What are your plans?

I want to focus on my main line.

What's your motto?

Elegance, sensitivity and energy.



Barbara Bui