South Sea pearls
Expert advice on watches and jewellery
Pearls have been enjoying a comeback as an accessory in recent years, thanks to Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. But why spend thousands on faux ones when you can get the real deal?
Pearls were once regarded as a symbol of wealth, and exclusive to a privileged few. It wasn't until the early 1900s, when Kokichi Mikimoto successfully developed and patented techniques to culture pearls, that they became widely accessible. Of the many types of pearls, including Akoya, Tahitian and freshwater, none is as coveted as South Sea pearls.
Where do they come from? The South Seas lie between the southern coast of Southeast Asia and the northern coast of Australia. The Philippines, Indonesia and Australia are the main producers of South Sea pearls.
Why are they so big? The South Seas are home to one of the largest oysters, called Pinctada maxima. It can grow up to 30cm in diameter, compared with the Akoya oyster in Japan and China whose average size is eight to 13cm. In addition, South Sea pearls are harvested after two years, compared with Akoya pearls, which are harvested after only nine to 16 months.
Things to look for:
Lustre: This refers to the reflective quality or the brilliance of the pearl's surface. You should be able to see your reflection on a pearl with good lustre. Unlike false pearls that may look shiny on the surface, quality South Sea pearls have a luminous depth.
Look for pearls with smooth and shiny surfaces, with minimal spots. Chips, gaps or cracks substantially affect the quality and value of the pearl.
Colour: There are two kinds of Pinctada maxima: the silver-lipped and the golden-lipped oysters. The silver-lipped variety produces white to silver pearls with pink, blue or green overtones. The golden-lipped one produces pearls that range from yellow to golden yellow. In Hong Kong, the prevailing choice in South Sea pearls is white with soft pink overtone. Try on different combinations of colours and overtones to see which one suits your complexion and style.
Size and shapes: Famous for their generous size, South Sea pearls begin from 8mm in diameter and can be as large as 20mm, on average measuring 13mm. Anything above 16mm is considered rare and very valuable. It takes years to gather a necklace with pearls of consistent lustre, colour and size. Whether you prefer round, teardrop, oval or baroque depends on your taste. In Hong Kong, most people go for a traditional round shape for necklaces, although a perfectly round shape is rare and, therefore, more valuable. Designs featuring irregular shapes have become fashionable in recent years. They appear in earrings, brooches, pendants, and rings set with diamonds.
Caring for your pearls
Put on pearls after doing your hair and make-up, as chemicals from hairspray, perfume and make-up damage the pearls' lustre. Keep your pearls in a soft pouch to protect them from being scratched by harder jewellery and gemstones. Have a pearl necklace restrung once a year if it's worn often. Ask your jeweller to use silk thread and make sure the string is knotted after each pearl. This prevents the disastrous scenario of scattered pearls should the string break and also protects the pearls by preventing them rubbing against each other.
Shopping list
Hodel at Prince Jewellery & Watch Co
10 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; Chow Sang Sang, 525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, tel: 2523 8047.
Hodel is an established wholesaler in quality pearls, and a best-kept secret for those in the know.
Jan Logan
Shop 3093, Level 3, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2918 4212.
Australian jeweller Jan Logan
features South Sea pearls in her designs, including her latest collection Belle De Jour.
Mikimoto
Shop 2056, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2234 7189.
Founded in 1893, the name Mikimoto is synonymous with high-quality cultured pearls.
