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SCMP Reporter

This highly respected brand has developed a movement that has the watch world talking

Audemars Piguet is one of the brands held in highest regard  by watch lovers. It is also one of the most productive. This year, it has announced an important technical innovation and new daring, but delicate, designs for women.

Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet founded the company in the small Swiss village of Le Brassus in 1875. Today, Jasmine Audemars, president of the board of directors, represents the fourth generation in this family-owned company.

This year at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Audemars Piguet unveiled a revolutionary technical development that has the watch world talking, and the company continues to introduce exciting and varied new collections.

The company launched  a new escapement that was developed in-house. The escapement is the crucial part of the watch that regulates the accuracy, maintaining and counting the oscillations of the balance and spring assembly.

It is a component that has always fascinated watchmakers, because of the critical role it plays and has long stimulated their creativity.

The lever escapement that has been used in watch movements for about 250 years has changed little. Its greatest weakness is that it needs lubrication to reduce friction. It is the need for oil - which gradually deteriorates - that causes problems. Some of the greatest horological geniuses developed their own solutions, the crown wheel escapement, the Graham deadbeat escapement (1718), the Leroy detent escapement (1748) and the Mudge lever escapement (1759).

Robert Robin, (1742-1799), royal clockmaker to Louis XVI, invented a type of escapement that combined the advantages of a detent escapement with those of the lever escapement.

Despite its ingenious principle, his escapement failed to achieve the success it deserved because it was particularly sensitive to shock, complex to manufacture, and required a level of accuracy that was not feasible in that era.

This year, the new escapement from Audemars Piguet is a direct-impulse escapement that offers several advantages over other escapements, including the absence of lubrication on the pallets and the use of two balance springs.

It was inspired by Robin's escapement and compared with classic Swiss lever escapements, which have been widely used since the early 20th century, and it is extremely accurate and efficient.

By eliminating the need for lubrication on the pallets and by developing revolutionary geometry for the design of the escape wheel, Audemars Piguet has achieved one of the dreams of any watchmaker - it has facilitated maintenance and avoided the possibility of the mechanism becoming clogged with grease once the oil has evaporated.

Another unique and important feature of this escapement is the use of two balance springs, which are placed head to tail.

In 1999, the company began the process of creating what it described as the 'eight wonders of horological art', a collection it called Tradition d'Excellence. The model in this series containing the new Audemars Piguet escapement is being used in Cabinet No. 5, which is being issued in a limited edition of just 20 watches in 950 platinum.

Cabinet No. 5 has a seven-day (168-hour) power reserve which is displayed on a pointer-style subdial at 11 o'clock.

To provide this enormous power reserve, Audemars Piguet has equipped this movement with a large diameter twin-barrel system. The back of the watch has a sapphire crystal that reveals its twin ratchet wheels.

This year, the company has created new versions of its Ladies' Royal Oak Offshore chronograph. These assertive models are for women who are a little daring. They feature a bold combination of rubber and diamonds. Audemars Piguet is paying tribute to the many women sailing enthusiasts by introducing the Royal Oak Offshore Lady Alinghi, a sporty but precious watch for those who like to live life to the full. It is named after  a famous sailing boat and features materials such as vulcarbonised rubber, the use of which was inspired by materials used on the boat after which the watch is named.

One other important addition to Audemars Piguet's women's range is the Ladies' Jules Audemars Tourbillon.  The case is in pink or white gold and the bezel is enhanced with delicate gem-setting. The crown is topped with a cabochon sapphire.



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