Yves Saint Laurent

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Who started it? Yves Saint Laurent was born in Oran, Algeria, in 1936. His foray into fashion began when he won first prize in a competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat in 1953 (Karl Lagerfeld won second prize). In 1955, he moved to Paris, spending three months at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. A few months later, he was introduced to Christian Dior by the then editor of French Vogue, and was hired on the spot. In 1957, Dior died of a stroke, and Laurent was appointed head designer. His first collection, Ligne Trapeze, was a hit and several successful collections followed.

In 1960, he was forced to leave Dior to do his military service in the French Army, and returned to find he'd been replaced. He opened his own couture house with business partner Pierre Berge and presented his first collection in 1962. Editors deemed his suits the best since Chanel, and subsequent collections included fluid tunics, high and small arm holes, Couture pea coats, afternoon suits and dresses. Rive Gauche boutiques for men and women followed in 1966.

During the next few years, Laurent introduced an androgynous look for women with Le Smoking tuxedo jacket and his signature African-inspired safari jackets, as well as see-through blouses, pantsuits and organza smocks.

In October 1998, he showed his last ready-to-wear collection, with the intention of handing over the reins to designer Alber Elbaz. The Gucci Group bought full control of the business in 1999 and replaced Elbaz with Tom Ford, despite Laurent's reservations. Laurent retained control of the Haute Couture business until his retirement in 2002.

As creative director, Ford made his own mark with sensual and modern versions of vintage YSL collections injected with his own twist on Hollywood glamour. He offered form-fitting silhouettes, generous lapels, nipped-in waists and deep-V shirts either over bare torso or tank tops. He also introduced a modern mix of blazers and leather coats, soft trousers with fitted jackets.

In 2004, Ford left the Gucci Group after a dispute, saying that he wanted to devote his time to making films.