Why is it hot? Two words: Will Meyrick. This man has a way with a frying pan that will blow your tastebuds. Meyrick is Scottish born with an Eton-style accent and Australian residency, and now presides over the best grub in Bali. Confusion? No - Thai fusion. Why is he hot? Imagine a Hugh Grant-Charlie Sheen blond cross for starters, although it's his career history that does the talking. A former protege at Martin Boetz's Longrain restaurant in Sydney, where he honed his Thai tastes, Meyrick set up cult foodie favourite Jimmy Liks, also in Sydney, with regular jaunts to Bangkok and beyond to pick up some street-hawker cred. What's on the menu? Coriander, lemon zest, betel leaves - it's a foodie's delight. Try sharing the oysters with nahm jim dressing, palm sugar and garlic, as well as the grilled squid with papaya salad, and crispy salmon with watermelon and ginger. Keep the braised beef cheeks down your end of the table and dig in. Those with a sweet tooth can chow down on the dessert platter, with its mixture of coconut creme and chocolate mousse. And this is five-star cuisine at pedestrian prices - about $200 a head for three courses and alcoholic tipples. Staff matters: this is Bali, so service comes with a smile. An open-plan kitchen with chefs in black bandanas creates a Jackie Chan-meets-Iron Chef vibe. They all bow down to their god, Meyrick, who, unlike many chefs before him, works the floor. He'll take your order, supervise the kitchen and still have time for a post-dinner martini if you smile sweetly. Drinks? The Rose Hancock is a delightful blend of vodka and pink juices with mint. Dreadfully moreish cocktails use ginger, vanilla, honey and lychees, so start at the top of the menu and work your way down. Anything else we should know? The ambience is that of a poolside open pavilion with floating, hanging and strategically placed candles. Sea breezes come courtesy of Seminyak beach. The schist wall water feature distinguishes a sleek, simple lounge area for pre- and post-prandial reclining. The Sofitel Seminyak guards its four prime waterfront hectares with care. Walk left down the beach for the nightclub district, turn right for a moonlight walk or head back to your private villa for a spot of late-night plunging in your personal pool. How can I get a table? Telephone the Sofitel Seminyak on 62 361 730 730 and ask for Will. Otherwise, see www.sofitel bali.com.