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Fillmore Street, San Francisco

While San Francisco has its fair share of artfully dishevelled hipsters and pampered prima donnas, nowhere does the city strike a balance between funky and fabulous as well as it does on Fillmore Street. There is something for the eclectic shopper in everyone on Fillmore, straddling the high and low haute couture of the city.

One of Fillmore Street's strengths is in its adherence to local brands and establishments. This isn't the street to stroll if big malls or chain stores are your bag. Instead, Fillmore's bounty features the best of homegrown San Francisco, but with an eye on globally appealing goods.

Pop into Nest (below right; 2300 Fillmore Street, tel: 1 415 292 699) for all things beaded, sparkling and adorned. Beautifully detailed linens, heavily beaded slippers (US$60), one-of-a-kind pitchers (US$120) and perfectly crafted wallets (US$50) are just the beginning. Don't miss the children's section and newly added women's wear. While you're in a nesting mood, pick up a chandelier (US$400-US$3,000) from the hundreds dangling next door at Cottage Industry (2326 Fillmore Street, tel: 1 415 8850326), which has magical light fixtures from around the world.

Just up the road, Berkeley-based designer Erica Tanov (2408 Fillmore Street, tel: 1 415 674 1228) hosts a perfectly compact eponymous boutique featuring exactly what you need now: Mexican fiesta strapless dresses (US$230), tissue-weight lounge pants (US$160) and the ultimate in bright green leather totes (US$400).

Benefit (2117 Fillmore Street, tel:1 415 567 0242), the jovial San Francisco cosmetics company, will doll you up in no time. Stop in for a stick of Ooh La Lift Eye Cream (US$20), Dallas Glow (US$26) and Hollywood Body Lustre (US$26), each in such cute packaging you'll never want to throw it away.

Next, have a bite in one of the best little Italian spots in the city. Vivande (2125 Fillmore Street, tel:

1 415 346 4430) serves ethereal home-made pasta, perfect spinach salads and a show-stopping hazelnut meringue (US$6.95) laced with just the right hint of apricot.

Or go for still more local flavours with the 'earthquake cake' (US$6.95), a natural disaster rendered in chocolate.

Head across the street to one of the city's most upmarket consignment shops. The Next-to-New Shop (2226 Fillmore Street, tel: [1415] 567 1627), run by San Francisco's Junior League and benefiting the city's public school system, is full of upper-crust offerings from the ladies-who-lunch set. Smart suits (starting at US$90), jewellery (from US$2) and vintage bags from Honolulu (US$15) decorate the place.

All this exploring may call for new shoes, a beautiful selection of which awaits in Paolo (2000 Fillmore Street, tel: 1 415 771 1944). Who doesn't love a new pair of vinyl kicks (US$230), snaky heels (US$120) or demure black flats (US$140)?

If you must put something on your head, make it a tasteful chapeau from Mrs Dewson's Hats (2050 Fillmore Street, tel: 1 415 346 1600), the tiny shop that has been leading the San Francisco hat market for more than 20 years. As locals know, Mrs Dewson famously designed the Willie Brim (US$300) for former San Francisco Mayor Willie Brown. Keep on the good side of this cantankerous one and she may do something similar for you.

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