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Viktor & Rolf

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Carrie Chan

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How did it start? Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were both born in the Netherlands in 1969. They met while studying fashion at the Academy of the Arts in Arnhem and graduated in 1992. They designed their first collection in 1993, and subsequently won the young designer award at French fashion contest Salon European des Jeunes Stylistes. Shortly after, they decided to pursue a career in Paris.

During the earlier years (1993-1998), the duo were more interested in the experimental side of fashion rather than its commercial aspect. The Black Square Dress created in 1994 squared off the shoulders to create an abstract shape. The next year, they created a series of blue PVC trousers and bodysuits coupled with white cotton, silk organza and black wool jackets. In 1996, Collection No7 offered a series of outfits featuring a convertible white dress over a grey bodysuit. That same year they staged a fake perfume launch to make a statement about fashion branding. Despite their creativity, most of the collections failed to receive much media attention.

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In 1998, the designers launched a haute couture collection, and made headlines with their extravagant construction and sculptural shapes, including oversized and layered shirt collars and sleeves, and masculine and feminine tailoring.

Their shows were known for being unorthodox. The Atomic Bomb collection in 1998 featured shirts stuffed with helium balloons to mimic a mushroom cloud. The Babushka collection in 1999 included a 10-layer dress worn by model Maggie Rizer, who undressed on the catwalk layer by layer.

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After five seasons and much acclaim they returned to ready-to-wear. In 2003, the duo invited actress Tilda Swinton to model for them. She has since become their muse.

Even today, Viktor & Rolf's shows are still likened to performance art and are full of surreal twists that have changed the way people perceive fashion. In October 2002, the designers were honoured at the Fashion Group International's 19th Annual Night of the Stars, and in 2003, the Louvre held a 10-year retrospective of their work.

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