12/F Ying Kong Mansion, 2-6 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay Tel: 2881 6662 Open: 6pm-midnight Cuisine: French. Price: $813 for two persons, excluding drinks. Ambience: Elegant but homey with cutesy knick-knacks and French antique-style furniture. All tables are partitioned into individual compartments separated by a piece of glass, a screen or yarn fabric, giving a sense of privacy. Pros: It's hard to walk out of Le Marron with any complaint about the food, which is a notch above many restaurants in Causeway Bay. There's a 15-minute wait between each course, allowing one to take things slowly and socialise in true French style. Cons: There is no demarcation of smoking and non-smoking sections and we happened to sit near a table of cigar-lovers. Not a nice complement to the excellent food. The compartmentalised design seems to encourage uninhibited behaviour. We constantly heard shrieks and screams from overexcited diners. Recommended dishes: Pan-fried foie gras ($95) topped with apple sauce was as tender as any fine foie gras should be. The soft and succulent mussels from Australia ($95) were as good a version of the shellfish we have ever tasted, although the thick broth of butter, olive oil and herbs did not add much to the flavour. The cassoulet with imported confit de canard ($155, above) was wonderful. We relished the delicate and perfectly marinated meat. Creme brulee ($30) was a stunner and, all in all, we oohed and aahed our way through the entire meal. What else? Le Marron does not take walk-in clients. It is advisable to book at least one day in advance for Monday to Thursday and three days for Friday to Sunday. There's a short wine list, and no charge if you bring your own wine.