ASK LOCALS TO name authentic Mexican dishes and most will draw a blank. Until recently, Mexican restaurants in the city have been associated more with rowdy nights of tequila drinking and late-night partying than fine dining. Take the now-defunct Casa Mexicana in North Point, which was known not so much for its mediocre food as its live band, pitchers of margaritas and throngs of sombrero-wearing diners dancing on the tables. However, this perception might well be changing, if the opening of at least three Mexican restaurants since last December is anything to go by.
The newcomers, one in Wan Chai and two in Tsim Sha Tsui, keep the party atmosphere going - all have bars, one has a dance floor and another offers live music. But their extensive menus suggest they're just as serious about their food as providing entertainment.
'All cuisines evolve over time - things have also changed for Mexican cuisine,' says Colin Smith, managing director of Don Juan Mexican Bar and Restaurant, which opened two months ago in Tsim Sha Tsui, the same neighbourhood as Que Pasa Tequila Bar & Cantina, which opened in December. 'In the past, Mexican restaurants were more like party places. They've become more sophisticated.'
A mark of that sophistication shows in the menus. Don Juan, for instance, offers so-called contemporary Mexican fare, toning down the spiciness found in many traditional Mexican dishes to cater to Hong Kong diners.
The third new eatery, Agave Tequila Y Comida, in Wan Chai, also opened last December. It's a branch of its namesake in Central, and has expanded the menu by nearly half, adding a host of regional specialties and new creations. 'Food quality is our cornerstone,' says food and beverage manager Luis Porras. 'We import most ingredients directly from Mexico. We're not just another party place.'
The addition of the three new eateries within six months marks the growing popularity of the cuisine, he says. 'More Hong Kong people have come to realise that Mexican food has a lot to offer,' says Porras, a Mexican who's lived in Hong Kong for 13 years. 'One reason we decided to open a branch in Wan Chai was because we know there's a growing market there.'
Also enjoying an expanding clientele is Caramba Mexican Cantina, a popular restaurant in SoHo, which opened in 1997. 'When we first opened, we had a lot more western customers than Chinese,' says general manager Emma Sebrof. 'The ratio was about 80 to 20 per cent. Now it's 60 to 40.' The increasing recognition of Mexican food by Hongkongers is driven by a stronger sense of adventure, she says. 'People have become more willing to experiment with different cuisines, in general. They're being educated more about global cuisines. I don't think there's so much of a growing market for Mexican food alone.'