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Uncorked

If you are preparing for next weekend's Songkhla marathon in Thailand, you might be wondering

which wine to select for the celebration of your finish.

How to match wine with Thai food has long been a conundrum. With its unrestrained heat, clamorous spices, bitter herbs and cunning sweetness, Thai food is the ultimate wine challenge.

Some of us have more chilli-heat stamina than others. If burning lips and tender tongue slow your pace, then seek out wines with a touch of sweetness to mitigate the heat. Experienced cooks know that a dish excessively seasoned with chillies can be salvaged by adding a spoonful of sugar or other sweetener, such as honey or jam. Sipping on a wine with a hint of sweetness will have the same effect. Two grape varieties produced frequently in a semi-sweet style are riesling and chenin blanc.

High alcohol levels emphasise chilli burn, so if you are heat-sensitive, look for wines from cooler climates as they typically have lower alcohol levels. For example, riesling produced in Germany's cool Mosel Valley ranges in strength from 7 to 9 per cent alcohol. A riesling from France's warmer Alsace region is typically 13 to 14 per cent, while rieslings from Australia's moderate Clare Valley are generally 12 per cent.

Whenever Asian food is mentioned, gewurztraminer is trotted out as the ideal match. That's rarely the case. However, in Thailand, gewurztraminer has a decided role to play. With its full body, intensely perfumed floral and grapefruit profile and affinity to sweetness, it is often the wine to suit the cacophony of flavours on the Thai table.

Not surprisingly, wine with exotic tropical or floral nuances will match Thai dishes with the same notes. Varieties such as viognier and riesling will complement your Thai table.

As many Thai dishes derive their zing from lime or tamarind additions, an acidic wine can stand up to Thai cuisine well and in the case of fried dishes, such as prawn cakes, it can cut through the greasiness. Acidic wines include sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, riesling and albari?o or wines such as Chablis, vinho verde and muscadet. Be cautious with these tart bottles, however, as many Thai dishes, such as pad Thai, have a hidden sweetness that will make the wine seem sour.

Another option especially suited to many Thai appetisers is champagne, which is one of the most acidic wines in the world. Champagne's tongue-tingling acid refreshes the palate after deep-fried foods and is an excellent foil to salty dishes. A demi-sec champagne, which is slightly sweet, will flatter a mild, creamy curry.

What to avoid at all cost? Oaked chardonnay is a loser when it comes to Thai food. The vanilla and clover flavours derived from the oak barrels clash with the exotic Thai palate of spices and seasoning. Tannic wines also fight with the food, so dodge the Bordeaux unless it's well aged.

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