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Andrew Salmon

Byeokjae Galbi

205 Bangi Dong,  Songpa-Gu

This Korean grill in southern Seoul is a little out of the way,  but well worth  the effort.  The decor isn't fancy, but the meats  -  varieties of hanwoo, Korea's marbled native beef - are sublime. Barbecue choices include deungshim (sirloin) and galbi (short rib), but there are options other than the grill:  raw meat cut with a sashimi knife, and yuk hoe (raw beef served with pear and garlic) are popular. Expect to pay about US$50 each. If you can't make it  to southern Seoul, there's a branch of the restaurant in the departure lounge of Incheon  airport.

Doorei

807 Insadong, Jongno-Gu

Set in a converted hanok (traditional house) in an Insadong  back alley, Doorei (right) is a favoured haunt of senior figures from  politics and business.  Diners are served by waitresses in silk robes. This is a hanjeonsik  place,  which means  dozens of dishes  can arrive for  up to two hours: grilled fish,  wild vegetables and herbs, tofu, rib soup and stews.   Wine is available, but more interesting is the makkolli, or traditional rice beer. This milky white, opaque brew has a refreshing tang and is served in gourds. Expect to pay  US$30 to US$70 each.

Songjukheon

37-1 Eunni Dong, near Insadong, Jongno-Gu

If you've graduated from Doorei, try this place, which is also  in Itaewon,  and expect to pay about US$40 each. Songjukheon offers hanjeonsik from the southwestern Jeolla province, widely considered the finest  area for traditional Korean food. Alongside standard fare such  as stews, pancakes and wild vegetables is the sensationally appetising jeot - a tiny serving  of squid intestine that has been fermented for years. Once in the mouth, the flavour explodes: approach with care if you're a newcomer to Korean cuisine.

Namu

W Hotel,  1/F 21 Gwangjang  Dong, Gwangjin-Gu

Located in Seoul's top boutique hotel, the futuristic W on the city's outskirts,  Namu (right)  is a superbly designed Asian restaurant offering a fusion of Korean, Japanese, Chinese and other Asian ingredients and cooking methods. Most dishes are healthy and light on the palate. The large public and exquisitely designed private rooms offer superb views over the Han River, and there's a first-class wine list. Prepare your wallet for a hammering when   you pay the bill though - all Seoul hotels charge 10 per cent tax, then compound the sin with another 10 per cent service charge. Expect to pay up to US$60 per person plus charges.

Sortino's

2/F 736-11, Hannam Dong,  Yongsan-Gu

Don't expect anything creative  or cutting edge in this Itaewon eatery that, since opening  last year, has captured the hearts and stomachs of Seoul's expatriate community.  Expect  classic pastas and huge wood oven-fired pizzas at (by Seoul standards)  affordable prices, as well as an exclusively Italian wine list. Also expect a visit from voluble Italian chef Santino Sortino, who likes to venture out of his kitchen for  a chat with patrons.  Count on paying US$20 to US$30 each.



Seoul