49 Graham Street, Central Tel: 2525 2624 Open: noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm (Saturday: last orders 11pm) Cuisine: French, focusing on Breton. Ambience: With only six tables, the restaurant feels intimate, although the street lights are glaring if you're by the windows. Price: HK$714 for two, with two glasses of house wine (HK$45 a glass), and service charge. Pros: Managing director Martial Hebert has a warm, straight-forward manner when explaining the dishes and ingredients. We appreciated his attentiveness. The food was exceptional. Cons: The house red was served chilled - we would have preferred it at room temperature. The bread basket was lovely and warm, but the crusts were tough - although the salted butter more than made up for it. Recommended dishes: The goat's cheese salad (HK$88) was beautifully presented and the portion was generous. Sitting atop a bed of fresh leaves was a large hunk of warm goat's cheese. The rich, cloudy texture contrasted perfectly with the crisp lettuce. The dressing provided a tangy kick and took the edge off the creamy cheese. My guest had the HK$270 three-course set dinner, which started with tender mussels in hot garlic butter sauce (above). The set-dinner main course was lamb fillet, which was succulent and cooked as requested. The balsamic and rosemary sauce went wonderfully with the meat. The fillet of beef (HK$148) was also tender and succulent, and came with an assortment of vegetables. For dessert, the palate-cleansing lime sorbet in vodka (HK$45) was zesty and refreshing after a heavy meal, and the orange creme brulee (with the set dinner) was a highlight. The crust cracked loudly when we broke it, and the underlying creamy custard was smooth, with delicate flavours. What else? Mussels are the restaurant's speciality, and they're flown in twice a week from Brittany.
