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Leather Bound

Karen Leong

LONG BEFORE HANDBAGS for men became trendy, leather designer Bill Amberg was already creating bags for what he calls 'the independent-minded man; adventurous with a great sense of humour'. The Bill Amberg brand of leather goods has, for more than 20 years, sated well-heeled men's appetites for beautifully crafted leather bags and accessories.

Bill Amberg set up his company designing leather goods in London in 1984. Today the company is divided into three divisions: design, architecture and wholesale/retail. The first division includes a team of Royal College of Art-trained product and furniture designers who assist Amberg in fulfilling commissions from corporate clients across a wide range of products and accessories. Among their more recent projects are a handbag line for Margaret Howell and sales products for Motorola.

The architecture division creates interior and architectural leatherwork, offering bespoke products for clients' jets, yachts and homes.

The wholesale/retail wing is the one that the man on the street recognises Bill Amberg for - in such manifestations as accessory designer Katie Hillier's current Bill Amberg range.

In his flourishing business, Amberg has never wavered from the company's founding ethos of 'refining form and function through traditional values of construction with modern requirements of function and usability.'

Last year, Amberg was appointed by gentlemanly English brand Dunhill as one of four designers (the other three are Tom Bolt, Nick Ashley and Richard James) to rejuvenate its image. In charge of the leather collections, Amberg wasted no time in updating Alfred Dunhill's Motorities line, a range of accessories first launched in 1893 for the gentleman motorist.

Amberg's designs never date - his Rocket bag, with its simple, functional and instantly recognisable aluminium handles, is a classic, its pared-down design setting off the quality of the leather. If I were a man, I would not be without the Medicine bag. It is quietly stylish - suggesting an intellectual but not an ego.

Of everything he has designed, does Amberg have a particular favourite? 'I'm afraid it's always the next project,' he says. However he does admit to being excited by his recently unveiled Modern Traveller collection - a complete range for the young urban professional.

The Modern Traveller gym holdall should be enough to send big-bag devotees into a state of euphoria. It's smart enough to take to work for that all-important meeting and a sleek companion for a weekend away. It boasts structure without being stifling.

Leather is fascinating and full of character. All good leather becomes increasingly battered as it ages, its bruised exterior lending an extra dimension to its personality. And the older it is, the better looking it becomes.

Amberg has an innate understanding of leather; he was introduced to it at an early age. 'I grew up in Northampton, home of the [British] shoe industry, and my mother would always bring back scraps of leather for us kids to play with. From those scraps I made all manner of purses and bags for my mum and sister.'

In the 1970s, Amberg went to Australia. 'By coincidence my cousin Penny Amberg was teaching at Canberra Art School. She put me in touch with Gay Wilson, a master craftswoman in Adelaide who was a real inspiration to me. I began working with a variety of craftspeople - from a whipmaker to bespoke saddlemakers. I covered all the skills,' he says.

Amberg says his spell in Australia was a fascinating time, one of real exploration. 'It was during this period that I developed my fascination with leather over and above other materials. Prior to that I had worked with steel and metal. I also came to understand the importance of learning the background skills of leather-working before learning to be more expressive.' He returned to London in 1982 and two years later the Bill Amberg group of companies was born.

While we hear a lot about the luxuriousness of Amberg's leather goods, we rarely hear much about the man himself. When asked if he considers himself a private person, Amberg says, 'I guess I split myself in two - one half being the public persona, which is an essential part of running my business, and the other half for friends and family, which is an essential part of my life.'

He is married to Susie Forbes, former deputy editor of British Vogue, and they have three children. Amberg says his biggest achievement is 'combining family life with a burgeoning luxury brand whilst maintaining my sanity'.

Yet instead of slowing down and enjoying the fruits of his labours, Amberg continues to be as deeply involved in the company as he was when he first started. His zeal is evident. He is also very quick to credit the team of people working for him in 'helping me to achieve my vision of a luxury leather-goods brand'.

Amberg is currently working on a line of soft casual day bags and redeveloping the Fisher range (which he originally based on a traditional fishing creel) into a slightly more edgy sports line. He also plans to expand into Hong Kong.

'We would like to develop a custom-made programme in Hong Kong and China whereby we work with luxury retailers to offer their client base exclusive, custom-made briefcases, day bags, jewellery boxes and home interior ranges. In Japan we have had much success with these programmes as we are able to offer a high-quality, luxury product with some exclusivity and a bespoke element.'

Amberg has been to Hong Kong many times since he first visited in 1979. 'There have been so many changes since that time. I love the vibrancy and diversity, the hustle and bustle,' he says.

With his tanned good looks, a successful business and a happy family life, it seems Amberg pretty much has it all. His talent remains highly sought after and his team receives a steady flow of commissions from hotels, fashion designers and car manufacturers. 'We [recently] completed the design of the interior of our first yacht. It's been a very exciting project,' he says.

So is there anything else he dreams of designing? 'I suppose the next thing is to tackle an aircraft.'

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