Shop A1 Marina Cove Shopping Centre, Sai Kung, phone 335-0380, 335-0373. (4) THE impetus to open the Mem Sahib in Sai Kung came from friends and neighbours of its two Indian owners, who would almost daily receive requests for 'leftovers'. So, instead of giving away food for free, co-owners Pamela Kapoor and Sunita Ma-khi-ja - both long-time Hong Kong residents - decided to go into business.
Perhaps the only people so far to have really benefitted from the appearance a year ago of Mem Sahib - in the Marina Cove Shopping centre - are residents of Sai Kung and nearby Clearwater Bay. But hopefully all that will change as word gets out about this gem of a northern Indian restaurant tucked away in Hong Kong's nether regions.
The atmosphere is unpretentious yet charming and comfortable, featuring cotton tablecloths with a soft pais-ley design, terra-cotta floors, brass candle-holders, and rattan blinds. The menu reflects the traditional cuisine of northern India, with emphasis on flavour without the excessive richness of Indian food.
Spices are kept moderate to cater to what is clearly a non-Asian clientele, but Indians used to flaming hot chillies will not be disappointed as the freshness of the ingredients and the delicate combination of Indian seasonings are more than satisfying.
Appetisers include aloo papdi chaat ($22) which combines crispy flour chips, chunks of potato, and chick peas in a tart and tangy seasoning. Highly recommended is the house speciality, Pam's kathi kebab ($48), lightly spiced and succulent chicken pieces wrapped in an Indian-style tortilla: two of these and a glass of refreshing mango lassi is a meal in itself.
Main courses include staples like chicken makhani ($42), tender meat in a tomato and butter sauce that ordinarily can be too heavy, but in this case is done to perfection. All you need is one or two vegetable dishes on the side - masaldedar chaana ($32) isa good one - and off you go.